Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: most likely an unknown, crusty hardman from forty years ago. Cleaned by Fritz on 11/17/18
Page Views: 1,364 total · 60/month
Shared By: F r i t z on Nov 17, 2018
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This is left of SSS by about a hundred yards.

P1. Chimney to the top of the pillar past some tat (5.4). Optional belay. Bust left, and clip three bolts on an existing route with positive holds (5.9+). Sling a massive horn, and bust up blocky terrain (5.7) to a short, right-facing fingers dihedral. Belay on a good ledge at the base.

P2. Stem and jam the short dihedral (5.8), then angle up and left on a diagonal, pegmatite groove (5.9), clipping two bolts and placing a blue or yellow Metolius in between. Make an airy step left onto some bulletproof slab and up to a large ledge with another short, right-facing dihedral leading to a larger ledge.

P3. This is the money pitch: stellar jamming of all sizes up a right-facing dihedral with jugs and footholds aplenty (5.8). It is very three-dimensional climbing on great stone, reminiscent of Russian Arete. Work your way through a short chimney, and then mantel to a bolted stance.

P4. Wander up the path of least resistance (5.8) until you get to a puzzling roof in a right-facing dihedral. Find the 5.9 way past or go heels-to-Jesus straight up at 5.11b. Then exhaust your list of expletives on an unbelievably awkward bombay chimney (5.8) to more low-angle terrain, and finish with some feel-good stemming to the rap anchor.

Rap 1: single 60m off two bolts to an alcove.
Rap 2: single 60m past a mega ledge to another big ledge. Look fifteen feet to the climber's left for two bolts with rap rings.
Rap 3: single 60m to a station with one bolt and two fixed nuts.
Rap 4: single 60m to the ground.

Location

About a hundred yards before Sweet Sunday Serenade on the main trail and just right of Unknown Pillar, locate a large cairn leading to a cleft with a 5.4 chimney in the back.

Protection

FA’d on passive gear only. Nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot is needed.

Photos