Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: most likely an unknown, crusty hardman from forty years ago. Cleaned by Fritz on 11/17/18
Page Views: 393 total · 177/month
Shared By: Fritz Nuffer on Nov 17, 2018
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is left of SSS by about a hundred yards.

P1. Chimney to the top of the pillar past some tat (5.4). Optional belay. Bust left, and clip three bolts on an existing route with positive holds (5.9+). Sling a massive horn, and bust up blocky terrain (5.7) to a short, right-facing fingers dihedral. Belay on a good ledge at the base.

P2. Stem and jam the short dihedral (5.8), then angle up and left on a diagonal, pegmatite groove (5.9), clipping two bolts and placing a blue or yellow Metolius in between. Make an airy step left onto some bulletproof slab and up to a large ledge with another short, right-facing dihedral leading to a larger ledge.

P3. This is the money pitch: stellar jamming of all sizes up a right-facing dihedral with jugs and footholds aplenty (5.8). It is very three-dimensional climbing on great stone, reminiscent of Russian Arete. Work your way through a short chimney, and then mantel to a bolted stance.

P4. Wander up the path of least resistance (5.8) until you get to a puzzling roof in a right-facing dihedral. Find the 5.9 way past or go heels-to-Jesus straight up at 5.11b. Then exhaust your list of expletives on an unbelievably awkward bombay chimney (5.8) to more low-angle terrain, and finish with some feel-good stemming to the rap anchor.

Rap 1: single 60m off two bolts to an alcove.
Rap 2: single 60m past a mega ledge to another big ledge. Look fifteen feet to the climber's left for two bolts with rap rings.
Rap 3: single 60m to a station with one bolt and two fixed nuts.
Rap 4: single 60m to the ground.

Location

About a hundred yards before Sweet Sunday Serenade on the main trail and just right of Unknown Pillar, locate a large cairn leading to a cleft with a 5.4 chimney in the back.

Protection

Passive gear and two bolts.
Fritz Nuffer
The Western Slope
  5.9+
Fritz Nuffer   The Western Slope
  5.9+
The first pitch has most certainly been done before and utilizes a couple of bolts from a neighboring sport route. The second probably has been done, but the money pitch was incredibly dirty. I tore out enough bushes to fill four industrial-sized garbage bags, trundled about six hundred pounds of rocks, and hammered out lots of janky chockstones that were blocking good jams or placements. Nov 17, 2018
Fritz Nuffer
The Western Slope
  5.9+
Fritz Nuffer   The Western Slope
  5.9+
If any of the old guard have historical information they'd like to add, I'd love to hear it. The money pitch was so heavily vegetated and dirt-encrusted that I doubt it was climbed even forty years ago, but then again, climbers had a much higher choss tolerance back in the day. FA or not, it's a great moderate and well worth repeating. Nov 20, 2018
Fritz Nuffer
The Western Slope
  5.9+
Fritz Nuffer   The Western Slope
  5.9+
Keatonicus and I ran up this today. Good, clean fun and safe for a 5.9 trad leader (save a thin, fingers piece for the peg traverse). The money pitch has a little bit of everything with great views -- 5.8 doesn't get much more enjoyable than this, and the P4 roof is a wee bit devious.... Nov 20, 2018
Fritz Nuffer
The Western Slope
  5.9+
Fritz Nuffer   The Western Slope
  5.9+
A note about the bolting: I used 3.75" bolts (overkill) on a 6" bit and overdrilled by an inch to facilitate eventual replacement. That means there's some protrusion past the hanger. We simulrapped on them all.

The peg traverse is safe now, but it is still a good whip if you blow the airy step. Plug a piece just after that move for the second. I wanted this route to be safe for a 5.9 leader but still exciting.

Thanks to Randall from Rock2Rapid podcast for donating the hardware for this route. Nov 22, 2018