Type: Trad, 375 ft (114 m), 4 pitches
FA: P1: Most likely an unknown, crusty hardman from forty years ago. P1 bolts: unknown. P2-4: Cleaned by Fritz on 11/17/18
Page Views: 2,277 total · 66/month
Shared By: F r i t z on Nov 17, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Jesse Zacher, Monomaniac, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Tyler KC, Jared LaVacque

You & This Route


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Description

This is right of Unknown Pillar and left of SSS by about a hundred yards apiece.

P1. Chimney forty feet to the top of the pillar past some tat (5.7).  Bust left and clip three bolts on tricky face through a short, shallow right-facing dihedral (5.10-). Head left at the big ledge to belay at a rap station, or continue up a short right-facing dihedral to a smaller ledge and belay on thin gear at the base of a right-facing tips corner. 100 or 120 feet. These pitches were previously established; ratings are guesstimates on my part.

P2. Stem and jam the beautiful, short thin-fingers dihedral (5.10-), then angle up and left on a diagonal, pegmatite groove (5.9), clipping a bolt and placing a blue or yellow Metolius. One more bolt leads to an airy step left across the peg groove onto some bulletproof slab. Wander up easy slab past a rap anchor to belay at the base of the large dihedral. 100 feet.

P3. This is the money pitch: stellar jamming of all sizes up a right-facing dihedral with jugs and footholds aplenty (5.9-). It is very three-dimensional, blue-collar climbing on great stone. Work your way through or around a short chimney, and then mantel to a bolted stance. 100 feet.

P4. Wander up the path of least resistance for twenty feet (5.8), then take a hard left, traversing until you get to a puzzling roof in a right-facing dihedral. (Pulling the roof before the corner is R-rated; stay hard left to have pro). Find the elusive hold that keeps it 5.9 and pull the roof. Then exhaust your list of expletives on an unbelievably awkward (=fun) bombay chimney (5.8) to more low-angle terrain, and finish with some feel-good stemming to the rap anchor. 90 feet.

P4 wide-free alternate finish courtesy of Skyeler: Cacophany Corners


Rap 1: single 60m off two bolts to an alcove.

Rap 2: single 60m past a mega ledge to another big ledge. Look fifteen feet to the climber's left for two bolts with rap rings.

Rap 3: single 60m to a station with one bolt and two fixed nuts.

Rap 4: single 60m to the ground.

Location

About a hundred yards before Sweet Sunday Serenade on the main trail and just right of Unknown Pillar, locate a large cairn leading to a cleft with a 5.7 chimney in the back.

Protection

Nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot is needed.

Photos