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Routes in The Wasteland
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Automatic Leg Spreader S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Beast with Two Backs, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Beast, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Believe It S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Capuccino S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Community Service S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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El Chapo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Espresso S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Guilt Parade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gun Shy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Java Creek S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lady Luck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Never Believe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ruckus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Slacker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Slacker Direct S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Thieves S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Vision Thing S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | A. Nelson, R. Wright |
| Page Views: | 507 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | Pinklebear on Oct 6, 2002 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Lady Luck is on the left panel of the wasteland, in the tan/brown vertical stone forming the upcanyon side of the amphitheater. It is just right of Community Service, the popular, well-chalked 5.11 with the roof band at mid-height, and just left of Guilt Parade, the long 5.12c up the blue, flake-type features.
The route starts with a small bulge (you can either boulder up to a good hold level with the first bolt or stick clip it). Stand up over the bulge and negotiate the thin, technical face climbing above via small crimps and a couple of dynamic stabs up into underclings. More funky, pimpy, pinchy, blocky climbing takes you through the finishing overlaps to a gold-shut anchor.
This is a tricky route that ends up being pretty damn fun once you figure out the Beta.
The route starts with a small bulge (you can either boulder up to a good hold level with the first bolt or stick clip it). Stand up over the bulge and negotiate the thin, technical face climbing above via small crimps and a couple of dynamic stabs up into underclings. More funky, pimpy, pinchy, blocky climbing takes you through the finishing overlaps to a gold-shut anchor.
This is a tricky route that ends up being pretty damn fun once you figure out the Beta.
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