Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: A. Nelson, R. Wright
Page Views: 179 total · 1/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Oct 6, 2002
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Lady Luck is on the left panel of the wasteland, in the tan/brown vertical stone forming the upcanyon side of the amphitheater. It is just right of Community Service, the popular, well-chalked 5.11 with the roof band at mid-height, and just left of Guilt Parade, the long 5.12c up the blue, flake-type features.

The route starts with a small bulge (you can either boulder up to a good hold level with the first bolt or stick clip it). Stand up over the bulge and negotiate the thin, technical face climbing above via small crimps and a couple of dynamic stabs up into underclings. More funky, pimpy, pinchy, blocky climbing takes you through the finishing overlaps to a gold-shut anchor.

This is a tricky route that ends up being pretty damn fun once you figure out the Beta.

Protection

10-12 quickdraws

Photos

Matt Lawry
Louisville, CO
 
Matt Lawry   Louisville, CO
 
I am surprised that this route only gets one to two stars on average - it's a great line! Thoughtful and techy climbing through a crimpy crux at the fourth bolt, then blocky slopers past the 5th bolt. Most of the rock is very clean with exception to a few crispy bits near the top. Get on it! May 21, 2018