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Routes in The Wasteland

Automatic Leg Spreader S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Beast with Two Backs, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beast, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Believe It S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Capuccino S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Community Service S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Espresso S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Guilt Parade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gun Shy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Java Creek S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lady Luck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Never Believe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ruckus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slacker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slacker Direct S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Thieves S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vision Thing S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Kurt Smith, Mike Pont
Page Views: 3,015 total, 15/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Sep 3, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is about as Euro as it gets, replete with incut huecos, interesting tufas, crimps, and of course pockets. If not for the hands-off ledge which separated the lower and upper bits, it would get three stars.

Vision Thing is one route left of Never Believe and about 10-12 feet right of an obvious huge hueco in the rock. Power endurance is the name of the game for the first half and a dyno or two will get you over the final roof and up to the anchors.

People have been bickering over the grade for years now -- Is it 13a? Is it 13b? It would be light-duty 8a in Europe, which puts it at about 13a/b.

Protection

14 quickdraws.

Photos

Rami Najjar
  5.13b
Rami Najjar  
  5.13b
I recall trying to lock in my knees multiple times with just my pants, it would not stay put. I guess I need longer lower limbs (or a knee pad). Oct 13, 2014
D-Storm  
Honestly, you don't even need pads for the kneebars. I enjoyed the route in a pair of Carhartt‎s. Sep 6, 2014
Rami Najjar
  5.13b
Rami Najjar  
  5.13b
Felt legit 13b to me sans knee bars (didnt own kneepads) Aug 15, 2014