Type: Sport
FA: Kurt Smith, 1993
Page Views: 962 total · 4/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 22, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Guilt Parade takes the fourth line of bolts on the left side of the Wasteland cave. While often described as slabby, this description is a major sandbag. The line starts with a very powerful slap that, for me, uses a lot of ape index. Passing the first bolt is close to 5.12 by itself. A series of technical face moves on good edges sends you up into something of a corner system where the gear used to get very spacey. A retro bolt was added in 1994 to protect one very cruxy move in this region. The route stays powerful and pumpy right up to the finishing bulge. The stone on Guilt Parade has always been sharp, particularly in the start, so plan on a rough job for the hands. The cumulative pump factor and mental game (lots of spacey pro higher up) add up to an excellent line (project for some of us), that sees a lot less traffic than it deserves. A couple of funky spots drop off a star.

Route update: June 2021 - the route has since seen a face lift. In 2020, a large chunk of loose rock, the size of a refrigerator, was removed around the 3rd bolt. The top crux of the route was rebolted June 2021, and bolts were moved to make the route safer and climbable without massive slings and runouts. The route has since regained some of its popularity now that the choss has been removed and the bolts are once again clippable. 13a seems to be the current consensus of the route.

Protection

Bring a dozen draws and a 60 meter rope.

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