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Routes in The Wasteland

Automatic Leg Spreader S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Beast with Two Backs, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beast, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Believe It S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Capuccino S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Community Service S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Espresso S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Guilt Parade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gun Shy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Java Creek S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lady Luck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Never Believe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ruckus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slacker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slacker Direct S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Thieves S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vision Thing S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Kurt Smith, 1993
Page Views: 174 total, 1/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 22, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Guilt Parade takes the fourth line of bolts on the left side of the Wasteland cave. While often described as slabby, this description is a major sandbag. The line starts with a very powerful slap that, for me, uses a lot of ape index. Passing the first bolt is close to 5.12 by itself. A series of technical face moves on good edges sends you up into something of a corner system where the gear used to get very spacey. A retro bolt was added in 1994 to protect one very cruxy move in this region. The route stays powerful and pumpy right up to the finishing bulge. The stone on Guilt Parade has always been sharp, particularly in the start, so plan on a rough job for the hands. The cumulative pump factor and mental game (lots of spacey pro higher up) add up to an excellent line (project for some of us), that sees a lot less traffic than it deserves. A couple of funky spots drop off a star.

Protection

Bring a dozen draws and a 60 meter rope.

Photos

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Jerad Friedrichs
Colorado Springs
  5.13a
Jerad Friedrichs   Colorado Springs
  5.13a
I do not know what this route was like prior to the break and old bolts, but it's in great shape now. I removed whatever loose stuff was left which wasn't much and thought that the re-bolting job was well done. It's definitely harder than 12c now, 13a seems fair. Fantastic route! Jun 14, 2014
Disco  
I climbed on G.P. for the first time 10/17/12 and saw the new bolts and no loose blocks. I know it's Rifle, but 12c seemed stout for the climbing. Has anyone done this route since the blocks were removed? Also, great climbing. Thanks for the new bolts! Oct 18, 2012
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
First of all, be careful! Second, I don't really think it's worth the effort/risk. There are plenty of better routes in the canyon. I would just recommend to others to climb elsewhere.

I could see an argument that the route is an attractive nuissance in its current state. Not sure what to do about that, other than to publicize the hazard. I would be against chopping the bolts, but that would be the only way to keep fools like myself from stumbling onto the route. It gets 3 stars in the 2002 Wolverine Guide, which is the guide I have...which is how I found myself trembling up the flake.

Does the 2008 guide mention the loose rock?

If you do re-bolt it, I would vote for moving the bolts a bit to the left at the bottom so the rope doesn't run over the flake. That way if the flake cut loose, and didn't whack your belayer, the leader might have a chance of surviving. Jul 18, 2009
I am putting up new routes in the canyon and I have my pry bar out there a lot. What do you guys think should I pry off the scary flake? and replace the bad bolt? Jul 17, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
Just to jump on the bandwagon, this route is quite spooky. A block I was standing on cut loose yesterday, nearly killing my belayer. The flake section is downright terrifying, and the bolts are all rusty & loose.

Other than that, it's a great climb! Jul 16, 2009
I agree with the above. I would not recommend anyone climb this route. There is a significant portion of wall that is waiting to come down. Even though it has been "crowbarred"--a few tons of rock isn't going to move until its ready to.

Also, the first bolt is halfway pulled out of the wall, though it's hard to tell that from below. I'd replace the bolt, but, like I said, I think this route is dangerous ...

ab Jun 27, 2007
Neal Carroll
  5.12c
Neal Carroll  
  5.12c
This route is a total pile that I would only recommend to my worst enemy. While pretty to look at...and fun to climb if you can get past the fear factor...I will not be surprised when the whole thing falls down. I just hope there is no one on it when it does...go do Durt instead! Oct 11, 2004
I went up this route the other day and concur that's there's a terrifying hollow sound you hear reefing on that section at 2/3 height. Unsure whether the block(s) will actually come off but I sure won't sunbathe underneath this route from now on. Aug 16, 2004
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
On the mark comment. If we are thinking of the same section of rock, I thought that what might reef here was never really huge, just toaster-oven sized blocks. In a different setting, a lot this stuff would have seen some heavy crowbar action. Frankly, many of the more "slabby" routes in the Wasteland should be viewed with same caution that Matt has indicated. Nov 23, 2001