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Routes in The Wasteland

Automatic Leg Spreader S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Beast with Two Backs, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beast, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Believe It S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Capuccino S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Community Service S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
El Chapo S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Espresso S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Guilt Parade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gun Shy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Java Creek S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lady Luck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Never Believe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ruckus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slacker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slacker Direct S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Thieves S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vision Thing S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: A. Nelson, R. Wright
Page Views: 3,891 total · 20/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jul 10, 2002
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Originally touted as "steeper, longer and harder than The Beast," this route is merely longer. Nevertheless, it's a fun climb up a funky pillar-type feature, and has become pretty popular in recent years.

This is the second route from the right in the Wasteland, and is one route right of Gunshy (more or less the last route on the blue/grey sector of the wall). It has gold-shut bolts on it, and climbs over a small roof to start, then up a groove onto a pillar, and through a second roof to anchors.

Pull over the opening roof on square holds, then amble your way up the groove on cool features. As the angle steepens, the holds get smaller, until you must overcome the roof moves on bizarre pinches.

A second pitch climbs the friable corner above the anchors at 5.11, but is not recommended on busy days due to rockfall potential.

Protection

10-12 quickdraws

Photos

Kayte Knower
  5.12d
Kayte Knower  
  5.12d
I know it's not the coolest route at the park, but it's one of the best routes I've ever done. That's probably because it took a behemoth effort to redpoint it, and routes that push you that hard are always memorable. But I have to think that the moves on this route would be cool even if it wasn't at your limit. It has a lot of distinct Rifle characteristics -- like wide weird pinches, a knee bar that rests your fingers but tires your core, and all kinds of chalked holds that are only useful in the perfect sequence. The bottom boulder problem is hard (stick clip yes). The middle of the route is puzzling and thought provoking. The moves to get past the crux bulge at the top are fantastic and throwy, and you're pretty pumped when you get there, at least I was, and I had a knee pad on each leg, not ashamed to admit it either. At the crux, the holds I used were well to the right of the bolt line. Go ahead and skip the crux bolt if you can count on a soft catch. Feb 19, 2007
dra-gon  
This route is way more fun without kneebar trickery. Aug 25, 2014
Good to see a few .12ds up there, as we thought it was pretty hard for .12c (my partner flashed Chud and almost flashed Pumparama), but we don't have a lot of Rifle experience. Didn't send but a great route, probably pretty polished now though. It's been about ten years. Sep 28, 2015
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
All bolts replaced with glue-in bolts, hardware courtesy of the ASCA and Rifle Climbers Coalition. If you like good bolts, pitch those organizations some money when you have a chance. Sep 11, 2017

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