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Routes in The Wasteland

Automatic Leg Spreader S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Beast with Two Backs, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beast, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Believe It S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Capuccino S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Community Service S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Espresso S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Guilt Parade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gun Shy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Java Creek S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lady Luck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Never Believe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ruckus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slacker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slacker Direct S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Thieves S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vision Thing S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Mike Pont, Pete Zoller
Page Views: 1,835 total, 9/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Dec 13, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is one route right of The Beast and joins the upper two or three bolts of Gun Shy to finish at the same anchors.

It was named Thieves both because a fixed line was stolen off the route and because of the hungry beta sponges loitering around the base of the line waiting for it to get sent!

Anyway, a bouldery, somewhat painful start on underclings leads to easier ground and a "slabby" crux on thin sidepulls. This route is a bit hard on the tips, so approach it with a good attitude and lots of fresh skin. This is a good route to try if you have more power than endurance . . . .

Protection

6-8 quickdraws.

Photos

Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
All bolts replaced with glue-in bolts, hardware courtesy of the ASCA and Rifle Climbers Coalition. If you like good bolts, pitch those organizations some money when you have a chance. Sep 11, 2017
melissa lipani
  5.13a
melissa lipani  
  5.13a
A really fun, bouldery route. Very temperature and skin dependent. Not sure where the "b" would figure in on the grade, but definitely solid and fun on great rock. A few kneebars prove helpful. First possible one is for the right knee in the underclings section at the bottom, which didn't work for my height. Next one is for the left knee (wear a pad) at the third clip is really good to use so you can shake out before the crux. Last one is after the crux in the pod, which makes it cake to clip the last bolt. At the crux (4th clip) you can either skip the clip, or hang an obscenely long draw to clip prior to moving into the crux. At the crux you have another choice after you grab the crappy right crimper and left crappy pinch. You can either surf blindly to the right into some decent right side pulls, or go straight up to a left gaston. Aug 17, 2004
A hold in the crux is almost [definitely] manufactured, though it would certainly go without. Feb 20, 2002