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Routes in The Wasteland

Automatic Leg Spreader S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Beast with Two Backs, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beast, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Believe It S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Capuccino S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Community Service S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
El Chapo S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Espresso S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Guilt Parade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gun Shy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Java Creek S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lady Luck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Never Believe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ruckus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slacker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slacker Direct S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Thieves S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vision Thing S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
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Description

This is where it all began. Contrary to guidebook information, the Wasteland's classic Never Believe (12d) was the first sport route in Rifle. The routes here are short for Rifle, generally ending after 50-80 feet. They more than make up for their lack of length, however, with the beauty of the blue-grey stone and the sustained, powerful nature of the climbing. Many of the older routes, especially in the middle of the cave, have become hyper-polished, so don't feel discouraged if a given route (The Beast for example) feels harder than the grade.

Getting There

Drive into the Canyon, passing the obvious cave of the Arsenal on the left. Park just past the Arsenal; you'll cross a bridge and turn into a large parking area on the left. Landmarks include an in-situ trash dumspter and a port-a-potty, as well as a sign on the left for the Koper Ice Cave Trail.

This parking area is about a mile and a half from the entrance to the canyon, where the road turns to dirt. Cross the road and take the narrow trail through the thick brush to the base of the crag.

Approach time: 15 seconds.

19 Total Climbs

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Location: The Wasteland Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Wasteland

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 88
Popular Demand
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 66
Community Service
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 14
Capuccino
Sport 2 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 53
Ruckus
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 16
Gun Shy
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 8
Automatic Leg Spreader
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 52
Never Believe
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 24
Slacker
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 39
Espresso
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 66
The Beast
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 18
Thieves
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 14
The Beast with Two Backs
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 33
Vision Thing
Sport
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 5
Slacker Direct
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Popular Demand
 88
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Community Service
 66
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Capuccino
 14
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Ruckus
 53
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Gun Shy
 16
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Automatic Leg Spreader
 8
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Never Believe
 52
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Slacker
 24
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Espresso
 39
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The Beast
 66
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Thieves
 18
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
The Beast with Two Backs
 14
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Vision Thing
 33
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Slacker Direct
 5
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Wasteland »

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