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Routes in The Wasteland

Automatic Leg Spreader S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Beast with Two Backs, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beast, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Believe It S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Capuccino S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Community Service S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Espresso S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Guilt Parade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gun Shy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Java Creek S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lady Luck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Never Believe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ruckus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slacker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slacker Direct S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Thieves S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vision Thing S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Mike Downing
Page Views: 1,592 total, 8/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jun 10, 2002
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This an anomaly: a bouldery route at Rifle. If you're a thick-torsoed power junky and you're sick of pumping out at bolt 15 on the Project Wall, this micro, but engaging, rig provides plenty of entertainment.

This is the short, very overhanging route one route left of Vision Thing and finishes on the same ledge and at the same anchors as Ruckus.

Start on the Euro-pods of Vision Thing and move left. Make an easy clip followed by a strenuous clip, then bust past slopers to good, deep huecos. Shake out here (or crawl up into the niche -- lame, lame), then bust the crux: hard moves up and left to an obvious spike.

Flounder and flop onto the ledge. Some call this route height-dependent.

Protection

5-7 quickdraws.

Photos

The easiest and certainly most fun way to gain the middle section of this "route" is to dyno from the sloper to the giant jug of a sidepull (from whence you can hang upside down by your foot to rest).

I think the route is a blast! May 28, 2011
Adam Holmes
  5.12d
Adam Holmes  
  5.12d
short but fun May 25, 2004