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Routes in The Wasteland

Automatic Leg Spreader S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Beast with Two Backs, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beast, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Believe It S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Capuccino S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Community Service S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Espresso S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Guilt Parade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gun Shy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Java Creek S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lady Luck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Never Believe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ruckus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slacker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slacker Direct S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Thieves S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vision Thing S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordy Douglas, 1993
Page Views: 1,056 total, 5/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 13, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Just below the large dihedral on the right side of The Wasteland is a cluster of routes that converge just below the start of the dihedral. This is the Espresso, Capuccino, Java Creek group. Immediately left of this group is a narrow overlap or roof about seven feet off the ground. Running through the overlap and just left of Espresso is Gun Shy, an excellent line that fires through the blue/grey limestone found on The Beast. The beauty of Gun Shy is that the powerful crux comes right off the deck, in getting over the overlap/roof. Difficulty eases back to very sustained 5.11+ climbing on pockets and rounded open hand pads. This rock greased up very soon after the line was established, and has not improved with use. However, Gun Shy is one of better lines on the wall and is a lot easier on the hands than routes of a similar grade on the left side of the wall. This is an excellent project (for some of us) with good pro that gets a bit more spacey near the top. The only detraction in my mind is the grease factor.

Protection

Ten draws and a 50 meter rope.

Photos

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Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
All bolts replaced with glue-in bolts, hardware courtesy of the ASCA and Rifle Climbers Coalition. If you like good bolts, pitch those organizations some money when you have a chance. Sep 11, 2017
Peggy Sayer
  5.12c
Peggy Sayer  
  5.12c
Tape the 2 middle fingers on your right hand to protect from the sharp pocket. The opening moves are bouldery and it lets up after the 3rd bolt. This shares the top to Theives, so use the same knee bar beta moving to and resting at the last bolt. Jun 22, 2005