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Routes in The Wasteland

Automatic Leg Spreader S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Beast with Two Backs, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beast, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Believe It S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Capuccino S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Community Service S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Espresso S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Guilt Parade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gun Shy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Java Creek S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lady Luck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Never Believe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ruckus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slacker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slacker Direct S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Thieves S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vision Thing S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Kurt Smith, 1992
Page Views: 1,664 total, 9/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 6, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

On the left side of the Wasteland. CS is the right of two lines firing up the near vertical face on pale to tan colored stone. Continuous movement on edges and side pulls with narry a pocket in sight in the land of pockets. This excellent "warm up" has always felt closer to 5.11d to than 11c, and it was originally rated 5.12a. Certainly no single sequence adds up to 12a, so pick your preference somewhere in that range.

This wall can pick up some stunning heat in the warmer months, and can be deadly in the middle of the day. On one such tour of CS the heat got to be so much that I nearly blacked out at 60 ft and took a good solid 25 footer onto an unsuspecting belayer. CS has also been the scene of some truly senseless climbing antics, perhaps because it is reasonably moderate. History aside, CS is fine line with high continuity, crisp edges, and solid rock. Just stay out of the sun.

Protection

Bring about a dozen draws and a 60 meter rope.

Photos

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Pablo Bles
Boulder, CO
  5.11c/d
Pablo Bles   Boulder, CO
  5.11c/d
Great route in some amazing rock. It doesn't seem to get as much credit as I think it deserves. Jul 14, 2014
426
 
426  
 
I really liked this route, maybe because I'm more of a "granite" clinger... Mar 21, 2007