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Routes in The Wasteland

Automatic Leg Spreader S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Beast with Two Backs, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beast, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Believe It S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Capuccino S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Community Service S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Espresso S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Guilt Parade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gun Shy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Java Creek S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lady Luck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Never Believe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ruckus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slacker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slacker Direct S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Thieves S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vision Thing S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Dan Morta
Page Views: 1,442 total, 29/month
Shared By: D@n Morta on Nov 11, 2013
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Easy (5.10) climbing leads to a no-hands rest below the roofed dihedral. Technical stemming and a hidden crimp get you past the first roof and into the crux. Micro-holds and more stemming maneuvers get you to the second roof. Gather your wits for some heads-up climbing and a couple of good holds on the arete with a jug sidepull allows you to clip and pull over the third roof and onto the upper headwall slab. More rests on the upper slab headwall allow you time to contemplate the final crux at the last bolt. Sidepulls, pinches, a sloper, and an optional kneebar will deposit you on the final section of vertical terrain that's pumpier than it looks.

Location

It is on the trail halfway between the Wasteland and Nappy Dugout. This route climbs the obvious dihedral between the Wasteland and the Nappy Dugout.

Protection

17 bolts. Chains and steel carabiners have been installed at the anchors. A 70 meter rope is required to lower off this route. The protection for this route was generously provided by the Rifle Climbers' Coalition

Photos

rick s
  5.12d PG13
rick s  
  5.12d PG13
~ 4th or 5th bolt, you pull over a big hollow bulge. Might be worth crowbarring this thing off only, because a bolt is glued in here, and it sounds like it might come off.

Other than that, this is a solid and great route! A few holds broke that might make it harder. Apr 7, 2016
heppnerd
  5.12a
heppnerd  
  5.12a
Great route. Atypical Rifle, climbs like a slab. Super fun, thought provoking moves. Aug 16, 2014
Fred Bonnard  
 
Thanks for this great route, Dan, really enjoyed working the moves. Be aware of loose rock while belaying, this route is still cleaning up. Jul 21, 2014
D@n Morta
Boulder, CO
 
D@n Morta   Boulder, CO
 
In case you were wondering, the route name came from two places: 1) the stemming nature of the route and 2) Nas singing 'Got Yourself A Gun' on Spotify while coming over Vail Pass en route to Rifle.

"Who am I? The back twister, lingerie ripper, automatic leg spreader, quicker brain getter, keepin' it gangsta wit' ya!" Nov 11, 2013