Avg: 3.5 from 67 votes
|FA:||Pete Zoller, Phillip Benningfield|
|Page Views:||9,017 total · 45/month|
|Shared By:||Pinklebear on Sep 12, 2001|
|Admins:||Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis venerable classic is many people's first 13a at Rifle, despite the fact that climbers have been bickering over the 12d vs 13a grade for the last decade. Were it in Europe it would be 7c+, which is 13a, so give yourself a pat on the back if you redpoint this slippery beast.
This route is just right of Never Believe and climbs directly up the center of the blue-grey panel of water-sculpted rock in the middle of the Wasteland. It can be recognized by a high first bolt (generally stick clipped) and a series of perfect two and three finger pockets at the opening sequence. Constant traffic on this route has turned the footholds black -- almost to the point that you feel like you're smearing on marble. Nevertheless, the climbing on this line is great -- sustained, powerful and aesthetic.
A genuine 13a advent, "The Beast with Two Backs," continues past the anchors out the big roof via long moves to good holds. Bring four or five more draws for this, and maybe a toothbrush, as it sees little traffic.