Avg: 3.6 from 84 votes
|FA:||Pete Zoller, Phillip Benningfield|
|Page Views:||12,250 total · 50/month|
|Shared By:||Pinklebear on Sep 12, 2001|
|Admins:||Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
This route is just right of Never Believe and climbs directly up the center of the blue-grey panel of water-sculpted rock in the middle of the Wasteland. It can be recognized by a high first bolt (generally stick clipped) and a series of perfect two and three finger pockets at the opening sequence. Constant traffic on this route has turned the footholds black -- almost to the point that you feel like you're smearing on marble. Nevertheless, the climbing on this line is great -- sustained, powerful and aesthetic.
Phillip Benningfield returned later to add "The Beast with Two Backs," which continues past the original anchors under the roof (RIP anchors—there's just a single bolt there now) via long moves to good holds in the ceiling. Bring four or five more draws for this, and finish on slabby white stone up on the headwall above the cave.
Per J T: the anchor/midway anchor is now gone.