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Routes in The Wasteland

Automatic Leg Spreader S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Beast with Two Backs, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beast, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Believe It S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Capuccino S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Community Service S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Espresso S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Guilt Parade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gun Shy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Java Creek S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lady Luck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Never Believe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ruckus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slacker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slacker Direct S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Thieves S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vision Thing S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Matt Samet
Page Views: 754 total, 4/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Nov 9, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is a continuation of Never Believe and punches through the big roof above the anchors. It was drilled as a bolt ladder, and as such is plenty easy to dog up. You'll only clip about half of these bolts on the redpoint -- make sure it's the good ones, as some of these bolts are fairly crooked and manky. Sorry.

Climb Never Believe to the anchors. Rest at a stance here, clinging to large tufas and getting that pesky lactic acid out of your forearms. A V8-type boulder problem leads out and past the lip of the roof to a short but fairly sustained section of climbing over a finishing bulge. The pocket in the roof is sometimes wet.

This isn't the best route by any stretch of the imagination, but sporadic traffic over the last few years has helped it clean up a bit.

Protection

10-14 quickdraws

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