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Routes in The Wasteland

Automatic Leg Spreader S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Beast with Two Backs, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Beast, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Believe It S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Capuccino S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Community Service S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Espresso S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Guilt Parade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gun Shy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Java Creek S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lady Luck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Never Believe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ruckus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Slacker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slacker Direct S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Thieves S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vision Thing S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 2,154 total, 11/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Nov 29, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the easiest route at the Wasteland and the furthest left. It's basically a 5.10 version of Community Service with slightly sketchier rock, but it makes for a decent outing nevertheless.

While the bolt line punches straight up, you're better off either staying slightly to the left or the right most of the way. At the last couple of bolts, you can either stay right in a funky corner or move left onto the face, which is crimpy and slightly harder.

This route has cleaned up pretty well over time, but it used to be very loose. I was climbing this route during a super-wet spell in 1997 when a TV-sized block about 15 feet to my left spontaneously detached and almost killed my belayer. Maybe the vibrations from my shitty footwork cut it loose -- I'll never know.

Anyway, just an anecdote to prove once again that stuff can and does fall off the walls at Rifle (as if the giant blocks that occasionally nail the road near the Project Wall weren't warning enough!).

Protection

10 draws or so.

Photos

Slick-ish start. Lots of left sidepulling. Still some loose stuff on the route, so be careful what you pull on. Good fun! Well-bolted - thanks! Aug 16, 2016
Harald Harb
Dumont
 
Harald Harb   Dumont
 
With the re-bolting done, a fun adventure and warm-up. Aug 12, 2016
Pascal Ripoche
Berkeley CA
  5.10c
Pascal Ripoche   Berkeley CA
  5.10c
As it stands now, I felt secure all the way up with some nice moves from crack to face to corner. Mar 4, 2011
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
  5.10c
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
  5.10c
This route was rebolted today as part of the Rifle Cleanup, it should now be much more enjoyable. Aug 22, 2010
I would also agree Aeon. If this route were ever to be rebolted, the bolts could be moved left for the 5.10 route and then a line established using part of this route that runs on the right & with some perhaps closer bolting at the 30' level afford a 5.11 route that would be pretty good. Jun 14, 2010
Aeon Aki    
 
This line would be much better if you didn't have to risk ground fall at the third bolt. Also, it felt like I was always climbing too far to one side of the bolts. If bolted better, this line could be as good as PMS and PMT. Jul 3, 2007
Tom C  
10a. 9- for Rifle. A stellar moderate line 3 stars for sure on this journey of a climb that moves from dihedrals to cracks to face. Apr 26, 2006
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
This route won't ever get called 5.9. Dec 14, 2001