Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 2,358 total · 11/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Nov 29, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


93 Opinions

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Description

This is the easiest route at the Wasteland and the furthest left. It's basically a 5.10 version of Community Service with slightly sketchier rock, but it makes for a decent outing nevertheless.

While the bolt line punches straight up, you're better off either staying slightly to the left or the right most of the way. At the last couple of bolts, you can either stay right in a funky corner or move left onto the face, which is crimpy and slightly harder.

This route has cleaned up pretty well over time, but it used to be very loose. I was climbing this route during a super-wet spell in 1997 when a TV-sized block about 15 feet to my left spontaneously detached and almost killed my belayer. Maybe the vibrations from my shitty footwork cut it loose -- I'll never know.

Anyway, just an anecdote to prove once again that stuff can and does fall off the walls at Rifle (as if the giant blocks that occasionally nail the road near the Project Wall weren't warning enough!).

Protection

10 draws or so.

Photos

Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
This route won't ever get called 5.9. Dec 14, 2001
Tom C  
10a. 9- for Rifle. A stellar moderate line 3 stars for sure on this journey of a climb that moves from dihedrals to cracks to face. Apr 26, 2006
Aeon Aki    
 
This line would be much better if you didn't have to risk ground fall at the third bolt. Also, it felt like I was always climbing too far to one side of the bolts. If bolted better, this line could be as good as PMS and PMT. Jul 3, 2007
I would also agree Aeon. If this route were ever to be rebolted, the bolts could be moved left for the 5.10 route and then a line established using part of this route that runs on the right & with some perhaps closer bolting at the 30' level afford a 5.11 route that would be pretty good. Jun 14, 2010
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
  5.10c
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
  5.10c
This route was rebolted today as part of the Rifle Cleanup, it should now be much more enjoyable. Aug 22, 2010
Pascal Ripoche
Berkeley CA
  5.10c
Pascal Ripoche   Berkeley CA
  5.10c
As it stands now, I felt secure all the way up with some nice moves from crack to face to corner. Mar 4, 2011
Harald Harb
Dumont
 
Harald Harb   Dumont
 
With the re-bolting done, a fun adventure and warm-up. Aug 12, 2016
Slick-ish start. Lots of left sidepulling. Still some loose stuff on the route, so be careful what you pull on. Good fun! Well-bolted - thanks! Aug 16, 2016