Avg: 2.6 from 77 votes
Routes in The Wasteland
|Automatic Leg Spreader S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Beast with Two Backs, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Beast, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Believe It S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Capuccino S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Community Service S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Espresso S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Guilt Parade S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Gun Shy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Java Creek S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Lady Luck S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Never Believe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Ruckus S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Slacker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Slacker Direct S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c|
|Thieves S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Vision Thing S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|Page Views:||2,154 total, 11/month|
|Shared By:||Pinklebear on Nov 29, 2001|
|Admins:||Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is the easiest route at the Wasteland and the furthest left. It's basically a 5.10 version of Community Service with slightly sketchier rock, but it makes for a decent outing nevertheless.
While the bolt line punches straight up, you're better off either staying slightly to the left or the right most of the way. At the last couple of bolts, you can either stay right in a funky corner or move left onto the face, which is crimpy and slightly harder.
This route has cleaned up pretty well over time, but it used to be very loose. I was climbing this route during a super-wet spell in 1997 when a TV-sized block about 15 feet to my left spontaneously detached and almost killed my belayer. Maybe the vibrations from my shitty footwork cut it loose -- I'll never know.
Anyway, just an anecdote to prove once again that stuff can and does fall off the walls at Rifle (as if the giant blocks that occasionally nail the road near the Project Wall weren't warning enough!).