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Routes in 04: Great Chimney Area

Bastard Chimney, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coup d'Etat T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cracker Jack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Day TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get Jacked T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct), The T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked, The T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Handle With Care T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hiker Envy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Beef Injection T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Match the Snatch T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Milking the Bull TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Overlooked T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pale Rider T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Perverted Inspiration T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Practice Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Son Of Great Chimney T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Son of Great Chimney Direct T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whipping Boy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild West T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown by me
Page Views: 2,172 total · 11/month
Shared By: Cory Bartholomew on Sep 30, 2002
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route

29 Opinions

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An awesome crack route with a huge ledge in the middle that makes it fun to do in two pitches. The bottom crack let's even the most clueless face climber sink perfect jams. The only negative is it tops out near the "survey marker" on the West Bluff and is often crowded with hikers checking out the stunning view.


standard rack


JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Man, that is the best protected X route I have ever done... Aug 28, 2006
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I corrected it--not X. Nov 9, 2006
John W. Knoernschild
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Good route. The bottom crack is fun and some of the moves make you feel quite exposed. Jul 20, 2009
G. Neely
Denver, CO
G. Neely   Denver, CO
Dust off and bring the hexes! The bottom crack (and most fun section) feels like 5.6, while the next section contains the crux and trickier gear placements. A leader should be strong at the 5.8 grade and vigilant about the ledge in the event of a leader fall. In other words, use your gear. Sep 25, 2009
Had a mini epic when I soloed this one onsight. The bottom crack to the big ledge went smoothly but the next 15 feet were hard. What looks like another good ledge is actually a smooth sloping ramp with NO holds. Finally found a bit of a micro-edge in the upper right corner, moved up and onto the ledge, stuck my hands into the twin cracks above and about a thousand angry wasps came flying out. I got stung about 30 times as I flew up the rest of the route. May 4, 2010
I didn't like this thing at all. The ledge breaks it up too much, the mantles are awkward, the top cracks are awkward, the top out is annoying with the touristas AND there seems to be a million flys living in the upper crack! Oct 17, 2010
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Hee Hee.. Yup- them moves above the ledge are devious and can really sucker ya.. I think many folks end up having the same experience on this. Oct 18, 2010
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
How about some cheese with that whine Rhoads. ;)
Yeah the upper cracks are not as much fun as the lower half. IMO better to do this in two pitches. Oct 18, 2010
FU Remo, I led this with a totally jacked middle finger after you spent all summer "Oooooooo, my POOR ankle (whine, whine, sniff, sniff)".

IMHO that this climb not be done at all.

Jay knower to myself during lead: "How's it going Rhoads?"

Rhoads: "It fucking sucks, I love it." Oct 18, 2010
Josh Knapp
East Troy, Wisconsin
Josh Knapp   East Troy, Wisconsin
This route is cracker-Jacked! Jun 19, 2011
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
the climbing on the first pitch is good...though the protection is shitty... its a hand crack that opens up in the back making your placements shit... a few passively placed cams did the trick. The second pitch of this climb pretty well sucks. Jul 15, 2011

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