All Locations > Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > West Bluff - West… > Prospect Point Ra… > Great Chimney Area
The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked
Avg: 3.1 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 40 ft|
|FA:||First lead: John Scott, 1985|
|Page Views:||4,382 total · 24/month|
|Shared By:||Kris Gorny on May 31, 2003|
|Admins:||Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE|
DescriptionThe Good, the Bad, and the Jacked climbs the blank face roughly 30 ft left of Cracker Jack. Start at the toe of the huge flake underneath a shallow corner with an old fixed piton. Ascend the flake rightwards to the ledge, place reasonable pro (#2 or #3 cam), move left and make exceedingly desperate moves up a shallow corner. Pass the fixed piton and veer slightly right to an OK rest where it's also possible to place small pro. From here execute a burly move to a horizontal hold (pro), immediately traversing left for another in-your-face section in a thin crack.
This is a 5.12 on steroids. I'd give it 5.12c. Hats off to the first ascensionist, regardless what grade.