Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: First lead: John Scott, 1985
Page Views: 5,213 total · 25/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on May 31, 2003
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Description

"The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked" climbs the blank face roughly 30 feet left of Cracker Jack. Start at the toe of the huge flake underneath a shallow corner with an old fixed piton. Ascend the flake rightwards to the ledge, place reasonable pro (#2 or #3 cam), move left and make exceedingly desperate moves up a shallow corner. Pass the fixed piton and veer slightly right to an OK rest where it's also possible to place small pro. From here execute a burly move to a horizontal hold (pro), traversing immediately left for another in-your-face section in a thin crack.

This is a 5.12 on steroids. I'd give it 5.12c. Hats off to the first ascensionist, regardless what grade.

Protection

BD #2 or #3 cams protect the initial moves from the pedestal. After the fixed piton, it's pretty spaced small pro (rp's, c3's and small aliens) to the top.

The embedded video clip below shows most gear placements (beta alert). youtube.com/watch?v=ngcVe3J…

Photos