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Routes in 04: Great Chimney Area

Bastard Chimney, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coup d'Etat T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cracker Jack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Day TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get Jacked T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct), The T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked, The T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Handle With Care T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hiker Envy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Beef Injection T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Match the Snatch T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Milking the Bull TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Overlooked T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pale Rider T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Perverted Inspiration T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Practice Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Son Of Great Chimney T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Son of Great Chimney Direct T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whipping Boy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild West T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
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Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: First lead: John Scott, 1985
Page Views: 4,603 total · 24/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on May 31, 2003
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked climbs the blank face roughly 30 ft left of Cracker Jack. Start at the toe of the huge flake underneath a shallow corner with an old fixed piton. Ascend the flake rightwards to the ledge, place reasonable pro (#2 or #3 cam), move left and make exceedingly desperate moves up a shallow corner. Pass the fixed piton and veer slightly right to an OK rest where it's also possible to place small pro. From here execute a burly move to a horizontal hold (pro), immediately traversing left for another in-your-face section in a thin crack.

This is a 5.12 on steroids. I'd give it 5.12c. Hats off to the first ascensionist, regardless what grade.

Protection

BD #2 or #3 cams protect the initial moves from the pedestal. After the fixed piton, it's pretty spaced small pro (rp's, c3's and small aliens) to the top.

The embedded video clip below shows most gear placements (beta alert). youtube.com/watch?v=ngcVe3J…
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Definitely one of the coolest 12s at the lake. I would go ahead and give it 4 stars because of the moves and positioning. Aug 6, 2006
David A Groth
Lacrosse
David A Groth   Lacrosse
First lead by John Scott in 1985. Exciting lead deserves an R rating. Oct 25, 2006
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.12a/b
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.12a/b
This is a great route. Not very long, but the climbing is technical and a bit powerful. If your looking for quality Lake 5.12's this one should be on the list. Apr 21, 2011
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
I have always thought this is one of the best routes at Devil's Lake and certainly of the best of the West Bluff. The holds are so small but super positive in places and require just the right pull angle and feet placement.... throw in a couple of big throws to big holds... fun. There is so much shifting of the body position on this climb... so very little just crimp'n straight down.. Apr 26, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.12a/b
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.12a/b
Well said Burt. Apr 26, 2011
Toughest in the initial section just after the piton. Is it just laybacking hard in the crimps of the crack? I couldn't get it to go. Sep 10, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.12a/b
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.12a/b
I realized yesterday that there are two ways to finish this route. One is to move left and climb thin crack(the way I'm doing it in picture-5.12b) or move a bit right and climb good slot crimps(the way Peter V. is climbing in picture-5.12a with better gear). How do most people finish? Aug 14, 2013
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.12a/b
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.12a/b
Yo Nezbit,

I've always started the climb by stepping off the ledge and traversing left along the mini-roof into the thin section to start the technical part(As the pic of Scott and Dave on the first lead). I would love to know how other people finish it too. I hope this helps. Cheers! Jun 9, 2014
Nezbit
 
Nezbit  
 
Thanks Remo! Jun 10, 2014
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
This route deserves a more fitting description. It does a disservice to us all, when people describe routes as top rope problems when they have been lead, and a long time ago at that. Jun 21, 2014
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Ok. Who wants it? Kris? Jun 22, 2014
The middle move is probably the best dyno at the Lake. The shorter the climber the better the dyno.

mr. poultry Jul 31, 2018

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