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Routes in Great Chimney Area

Bastard Chimney, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coup d'Etat T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cracker Jack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Day TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get Jacked T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct), The T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked, The T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Handle With Care T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hiker Envy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Beef Injection T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Match the Snatch T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Milking the Bull TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Overlooked T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pale Rider T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Perverted Inspiration T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Practice Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Son Of Great Chimney T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Son of Great Chimney Direct T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whipping Boy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild West T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, TR
FA: FA: Burt Lindquist, First Lead: Isaac Therneau (see comments)
Page Views: 1,319 total, 12/month
Shared By: Isaac Therneau on Oct 12, 2008
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

I chose to start with the same beginning as "Whipping Boy" as this adds an additional 15ft of climbing. Once through the initial 15ft continue diagonally up and right to the obvious ledge. From the ledge you follow the arete using underclings and insecure climbing to the top. Expect the climbing to get harder as you progress with several small cruxes.

Location

The arete right of "Whipping Boy"

Protection

Same pro as "Whipping Boy" to the ledge. From the ledge you can place several pieces, but there is scant/marginal pro afterwards to the top with a long run-out and a high potential for decking if one falls.

Photos

Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
 
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
 
I belayed Henning on an onsight lead attempt. He ended up down-climbing before the undercling much to my relief. Jul 2, 2013
Kris Gorny

  5.10c R
Kris Gorny    
  5.10c R
Nope, no OS-lead in our case. We TR'd it first. Serious respect to whoever onsights this on lead. Ground is pretty close on this one. Jul 1, 2013
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
OOOoo It could be that Issac and/or Kris may have already onsight led it... I am not super sure. Maybe they will chime in and raise the stakes or not depending on their response. Jun 21, 2013
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  5.10c
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  5.10c
So the challenge is thrown. Anyone care to try to onsight lead it? No peeking at the photos! Jun 21, 2013
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
I clearly haven't talked to everybody who has ever climbed this route TR or not. I am thinking it's been only led ground up just a few times by the folks in this thread so a TR ascent is typical. Placing gear on the lead ground up would make it even harder cause the climb requires at it's easiest to be clutching with all limbs.... I think everybody agrees it's really good DL climb and interesting it sat somewhat not noticed for so long... Jun 21, 2013
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  5.10c
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  5.10c
I "onsighted" this in September 2011, but, it was on TR (lame!) Jun 20, 2013
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Once you figure the sequence and are prepared for the intense body tension this route requires it falls back into the 5.10+ range. Nobody I have either talked with or belayed on this has on-sighted it! The feet placements are absolutely critical as to the sequence you put them in and then the quick execution of movement off of them to the higher set of holds crucial. Jun 20, 2013
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.11 R
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
  5.11 R
Seemed like an 11 to me ... I was schooled!

Not as powerful as Coup d'Etat, but also requires more balance and has less positive holds. Whipping Boy is certainly easier, to me.

Reminds me most of Pussycat. Jun 20, 2013
Michael Sullivan
Seattle, WA
  5.11-
Michael Sullivan   Seattle, WA  
  5.11-
So I was impressed by this climb. I didn't expect it to be all that interesting but doing it from the start of Whipping Boy made for a reasonably lengthy little climb. More interesting to me was the problem of giving it a grade. I figured out all of the moves on the first tie-in but kept getting messed up at the downward facing flake high on the route. It ended up taking me quite some time to get the final sequence right. Once executed, I found it to be at least as hard as Baker Street and Alpha Centauri and certainly not as straight forward. Though requiring less strength on the hardest move, this one took me more tries to TR clean than Wild West Homo (admittedly WWH is the epitome of my climbing style). In short, more value than expected. Cool climb. Jun 20, 2013
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.10c
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.10c
I agree with Nick, very tricky. Once you figure it out though, it ends up being a fun and interesting climb. Sep 14, 2011
Tradiban
  5.10b
Tradiban  
  5.10b
Very tricky, good gear at your feet when doing the crux, but none after making for a solid runout. I fell on OS wondering how the hell to reach the final under-clings. Sep 13, 2011
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
That rope belongs to a friend of mine and yes it sure is "loud".
That was such a warm balmy day for early Oct.. Not totally out of the ordinary of course but just felt super warm. We went up to West Bluff originally to do lead routes on "Lost Face" but we couldn't believe the number of wasps flying around on that face... no one wanted to go near it. We ended up skipping around to a few different areas right up until dark. Another super fun day at DL. I will be out this Sat. again. DL climber end of the season get together down at S. Shore pavilion after every one is climbed out. Oct 16, 2008
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
 
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
 
It's incredible the list of heinously sandbagged routes at the lake. I noticed by your photos Burt that we were climbing at the same bluff sat. My initial plan was to lead Dead Tree and Tardis, it's hard to forget seeing that neon green rope. It'd be cool to climb together sometime. Oct 15, 2008
Kris Gorny

  5.10c R
Kris Gorny    
  5.10c R
Burt -- I think that the move you're talking about is a hard 5.10 but I also think that the Stretcher on Pedestal Buttress is hard 10 (instead 5.9+) for example. So that kinda goes against the way things are rated at the Lake. Great route regardless. Oct 15, 2008
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
 
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
 
It's hard to compare the cruxs of the two as they're very different styles. The 5.9+ required powerful moves in between mediocre holds, while Whipping Boy was a delicate climb requiring you trust your feet with small hands. I have to agree with Kryz that the climb felt harder than 5.9. The climb kicked my ass on TR before figuring out the sequence. Oct 15, 2008
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
That throw with your right hand up to the tricky side pull with the left hand up in the undercling (where the only gear is for the crux by the way) and your feet jacked up and smeared as high as you can get them does seem a bit harder then 5.9+ when you think about it. All that on top of doing the initial moves of "Whipping Boy" and then the awkward body tension inducing moves from the ledge up to this crux move doesn't help either. You are probably right Kris about it being 5.10c-ish. I was just thinking that the whole climb doesn't feel as hard as "Whipping Boy" to the left. Oct 15, 2008
Kris Gorny

  5.10c R
Kris Gorny    
  5.10c R
Awesome job, Isaac! Congrats! Sure felt like 5.10c/d to me when we tried it on TR last September. Oct 15, 2008
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
 
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
 
That would be incredible and completely unexpected. I admit the climbing was intense and the crux for me was placing the protection. I'll certainly wait on assuming this to be the case until hearing from more of the experienced climbers at the lake. Thanks for pointing the route out in one of your earlier posts, as you mentioned it's an excellent climb with a very different style than most at the lake. Oct 15, 2008
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Isaac:

I am thinking this may be a true first ascent at the lake if you have gotten it from ground up. I have led it but with pre-placed gear in the mid climb and crux area..... so not really a true claim.
I think this is one cool route TR or Lead... Give it a name as it doesn't have one in any of the guides I think nor is it even mentioned?? Any one else know anything?? Oct 14, 2008