Adventure Projects is hiring an Android engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Great Chimney Area

Bastard Chimney, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coup d'Etat T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cracker Jack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Day TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get Jacked T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct), The T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked, The T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Handle With Care T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hiker Envy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Beef Injection T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Match the Snatch T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Milking the Bull TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Overlooked T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pale Rider T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Perverted Inspiration T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Practice Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Son Of Great Chimney T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Son of Great Chimney Direct T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whipping Boy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild West T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: First Lead: Dave Groth, 1987
Page Views: 4,856 total · 33/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 6, 2006
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Wild West sits high atop the West Bluff, and overlooks everything from its poignant perch. This slightly overhanging line is not your typical DL 5.11-, and is an excellent, though short lead for the grade. However the spice is the real deal, and committing to some of the more bouldery moves may make you sweat a little. Luckily the holds are surprisingly good, and the sequences are fairly straight forward.
(Also known as "Wild West Homo" - a comment on some people's attitudes toward the lycra-clad climbers of the 80s, I think - DH.)

Location

Prospect Point
David A Groth
Lacrosse
David A Groth   Lacrosse
FA lead & TR by Dave Groth in 87. Good gear but run out at the top. Oct 25, 2006
Kris Gorny

  5.11b R
Kris Gorny    
  5.11b R
I guess I would give it an "R" due to injury potential. Slipping and falling from the difficult opening moves could be nasty. And if you cut near the exit of the climb, you'll likely deck on the ledge unless the belayer takes up bunch of slack. Otherwise really great route with bouldery moves throughout. The crux is well protected. Jul 14, 2008
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
what gear did you guys use to lead this? Oct 12, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11b R
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11b R
Paul, IIRC grey alien first, green nut in crack about 10 feet up, and #3 BD camalot equalized with a superlight rock in the horizontal (or 2 #3's), but you should rap in and tinker with what works off your rack before taking anyone's word for it. The early placements are finnicky as I recall. I am told that this climb has seen deckage so make sure the placements are good. Protect your belayer as well with a small cam in the crack at chest height on the starting block as well. Go for it! Oct 12, 2009
Tradiban
  5.11a PG13
Tradiban  
  5.11a PG13
The gear to start was poor, I think a small brassie, then a good nut in the vertical seam, a couple of great cams in the horizontal and run out to the top. This starts on a pedestal and a fall at the start could be disastrous, maybe anchor the belayor? Bring everything you got and put in as much as possible. Oct 12, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.11a R
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.11a R
You can get a good nut, or really small cam in a thin seam to work as a directional, and protect the start. Heads up at the top, it's a big run-out! Aug 1, 2012
Tradiban
  5.11a PG13
Tradiban  
  5.11a PG13
Yay! Remo, are you getting into the business routes?!!!? What's next? Aug 1, 2012
Ted Kryzer
Rochester, MN
  5.11a R
Ted Kryzer   Rochester, MN
  5.11a R
I do believe this route deserves a R/X rating. when i first tried this route on lead I decked (with some rope stretch) from the horizontal. The gear blew and the nut in the small vertical seam some how held. If it wasn't for my belayer Fred I very easily could have broken many bones and slid into the large crack at the base. The picture above is a half second before the fall. Aug 13, 2012
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11b R
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11b R
Out of curiosity Ted, what gear blew?

My gear in the horizontal seemed bomber, but I was glad to not test it. I was a lot more worried about blowing a move before I had gear in the horizontal. Aug 14, 2012
Ted Kryzer
Rochester, MN
  5.11a R
Ted Kryzer   Rochester, MN
  5.11a R
I never got the chance to place in the horizontal. It was a small cam between the nut and the horizontal. I don't remember the size but it seemed okay. I blew going to the horizontal, worst possible place to fall. Aug 14, 2012
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11b R
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11b R
Ah. I misunderstood. Yeah I can see that happening. Glad no harm done. Aug 14, 2012
Kris Gorny

  5.11b R
Kris Gorny    
  5.11b R
I tried looking up how "PG 13" vs "R" is defined. I found this: "PG13 – OK protection, falls may be long but will probably not cause serious injury", "R – Runout, some protection placements may be very far apart (possibility of broken bones, even when properly protected)".
Not trying to split hairs here but long fall on Wild West Homo most likely means hitting the ledge, even if gear holds. Regardless of the consensus. Aug 15, 2012
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Well heck.... if there is any concern by anyone that a lead climb should be rated with an R to denote seriousness.... it should rated with an R... much better to err on the safe side.. Ratings are guides for future aspiring climbers/leaders... In the case of WWH I agree with Kris... the ledge the climb starts off of (and the gaping hole between the ledge and the wall) are an undeniable hazard on this climb good pro or not... Aug 15, 2012
Michael Sullivan
Seattle, WA
 
Michael Sullivan   Seattle, WA  
 
TR'd this with Brian Seegers the other day. First time running a lap on it in a couple of years. I found some sweet beta for the start involving a right hand, right heel match transitioning into a complete rock up onto the heel. Very secure for me and it felt super cool to do. Can't say I've ever done a move like that on a route at DL. Just one more reason why this thing is so good. Apr 4, 2016

More About Wild West

Printer-Friendly