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Routes in Great Chimney Area

Bastard Chimney, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coup d'Etat T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cracker Jack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Day TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get Jacked T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct), The T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked, The T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Handle With Care T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hiker Envy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Beef Injection T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Match the Snatch T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Milking the Bull TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Overlooked T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pale Rider T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Perverted Inspiration T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Practice Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Son Of Great Chimney T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Son of Great Chimney Direct T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whipping Boy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild West T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, TR, 75 ft
FA: Dave Groth
Page Views: 4,236 total, 33/month
Shared By: David A Groth on Jun 9, 2007
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Do the first half of of the regular route and finish up the shallow dihedral left and center on the buttress, climb the center face instead of the corner. Climbing is sustained with a mantle/dino at the finish.

Location

just left of the regular route.

Protection

good wire with 2-3 offset cams
Tradiban
  5.12a
Tradiban  
  5.12a
Yea, I got that, its the biggest off-set brass, plus a red C3 a few inches higher. They were both slightly blind placements and were hard to get perfect on lead. Sep 13, 2011
Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
Just try to find that offset nut in one of the lieback flakes. It should protect the cruxiest moves. Sep 13, 2011
Tradiban
  5.12a
Tradiban  
  5.12a
There's a nice .75 C4 in the horizontal just left of the see behind block, kinda funky but its solid. Unfortunately this means I need to lead the direct proper without use of the rest. Sep 13, 2011
Tradiban
  5.12a
Tradiban  
  5.12a
Ah, thanks Tom, I kinda thought that. I don't place gear in places I can't use for my hands so I considered that a unreasonable run-out if I went straight up from the bulge with no gear. 5.11d if one goes out right to the rest then. Sep 10, 2011
Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
For me, the route goes up from the crux of the 11a, pulling the bulge. There's one jug ledge at the top of the bulge, then a long reach to a thin crimp allows you to reset your feet for another long reach to the upper horizontal, which has 2 decent crimps in it. From these, you can place a #1 C4 and a nut in the blocks on the arete (without using the holds on the arete), then move up into that layback. A bit higher, in the second layback of the upper crux, you can place a bomber offset nut (one of the largest ones), but you'll probably need to figure this piece out before the lead, as it can be a bit pumpy here.

I think avoiding the right arete completely makes this route pumpy enough to deserve the 12a (as former debate suggests that the broken rock makes the upper crux 11d). Sep 9, 2011
Tradiban
  5.12a
Tradiban  
  5.12a
Went back and led this today, one of the better protected 12's in the park. The last gear was placed blindly but I could down climb to the rest and then go up fresh to have a look at it. A whip from the top would be long but decently clean. A brass offset fit perfectly for the crux piece.

BTW, the crux of the regular route is always tricky for me, 11b/c for that. Not 11a like in the new guide. Sep 7, 2011
Tradiban
  5.12a
Tradiban  
  5.12a
Finally got on this today, it is VERY GOOD! That crux after the rest on the regular route always feels hard for me. I assume I'm allowed to use the jugs on top of the see-behind block, then move left to the face? That seemed to feel like where the line logically divided. Sep 5, 2011
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.12a PG13
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.12a PG13
Finally sacked up to lead this today-- awesome route! Well protected but somewhat runout, with a second exciting crux at the top.

Click here for gear beta if you are interested. Sep 9, 2010
Kris Gorny

  5.12a PG13
Kris Gorny    
  5.12a PG13
Thanks, Travis. Son of the Great Chimney and the direct variation would be mega-classics at any crag. Hats off to Pete Cleveland and Dave Groth. Sep 16, 2008
Did this on TR over Labor Day weekend, absolutely amazing route. The finishing moves didn't seem too hard so i'm guessing Kris is right on with the finish.

Incredible lead Kris

Best route at DL Sep 1, 2008
Kris Gorny

  5.12a PG13
Kris Gorny    
  5.12a PG13
A key flake broke off at the crux and the exit moves may now be easier than they used to be (no dyno). Really great route that protects reasonably well.

Offset Aliens are perfect for protecting the top moves. Aug 11, 2008
You BAAstard! You stole my route! Just when I was going to make a come back! Jun 26, 2007