Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: John Scott, 1987
Page Views: 2,588 total · 17/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 6, 2006
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, chris tregge, James Schroeder

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

Dually cracks up a small tower type feature. The bottom is a little dirty, though the upper section provides good movement.

Location

Just north around the corner from Milking the Bull.

Protection

No give me. Wires, small cams.

Photos

David A Groth
Lacrosse
David A Groth   Lacrosse
FA done by John Scott in 1987 Oct 31, 2006
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
This a great little DL lead for the grade. Fairly hard and the pro is all good except maybe the first 10 feet. Great crux with good small wires to protect. I like the varied nature of the climbing on this route all packed into 50 feet. Oct 31, 2006
Tradiban
  5.10d
Tradiban  
  5.10d
Climbed better than it looked. On OS I took a nice whipper on a #00 C3, smallest piece of pro I've ever fell on. Protected well except for the dirty first 10 feet, I think skip that and start on the slot in the horizontal one ledge up.

Tricky movement in the crux! Sep 20, 2010
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Ha!

Lead this this Saturday past in 90 temps and pretty high humidity and the crux, not so oddly, became not slim'n out of the upper hand jams. A hand towel attached near the chalk bag a great idea! Jul 10, 2011