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Routes in Great Chimney Area

Bastard Chimney, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coup d'Etat T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cracker Jack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Day TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get Jacked T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct), The T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked, The T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Handle With Care T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hiker Envy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Beef Injection T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Match the Snatch T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Milking the Bull TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Overlooked T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pale Rider T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Perverted Inspiration T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Practice Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Son Of Great Chimney T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Son of Great Chimney Direct T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whipping Boy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild West T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, TR, 55 ft
FA: Michael Shaffer
Page Views: 1,113 total, 26/month
Shared By: Nezbit on Jun 14, 2014
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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On-Sight Beta:
Climb straight up the face directly beneath the roof that marks the beginning of The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. Move left to a thin crack and continue to the top after the big move on the original line.

Flash Beta:
Powerful, sustained, and unprotected climbing leads into the original line put up by John Scott. A fall before establishing on the flared vertical just above the roof is certain to be unpleasant. A very shallow yet good #1 C4 can be placed in the flare and protects the climber while pulling the roof. A piton waits above. Marginal, micro gear is available just before the big move ahead and a good placement is available right after. After the big move, do a short traverse left to a thin crack and prepare for a third crux section.


The direct start begins beneath a small roof approximately 15ft. off the deck (level with the beginning of the original line), climbing the narrow face on the right side of the Get Jacked corner in order to meet up with The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked.


Route: 000 BD C3 - #1 BD C4, or equivalent, and draws.
Anchor: 2-3 #3 BD C4, or equivalent, and cordelettes/long webbing.


Pull the pin. If a Ball-Nut didn't fit I was going to put in a new one on lead. That was the plan anyway. Bought a pin but left the area a month later so never got to it.
The only opinion that matters is the FA of course but I would think that anything more hard-core than clipping something you didn't place on lead would be perfectly acceptable to the DLFA. Jun 19, 2014

I can see the appeal of a sans-pin-accent. I do not know about pulling it though--just not well enough established in the area to make that call for the local climbing community. But it seems like there are lots of folks around that know their stuff and DL's too! For what it's worth, if I repeat the climb and the pin is still there I will clip it again without hesitation, cringe, and carry on.

Hope to see you at the Lake sometime! Jun 17, 2014
Shit ya. Props. I would like to see this climb go sans pin. My plan was to pull the pin and place a ball-nut in its place. I never felt comfortable on the crux moves though. Jun 17, 2014