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The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct)
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British R
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in 04: Great Chimney Area
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04: Great Chimney Area | 3963 TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bastard Chimney, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Coup d'Etat T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cracker Jack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dirty Day TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Get Jacked T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct), The T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Good, the Bad, and the Jacked, The T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Handle With Care T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hiker Envy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hot Beef Injection T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Match the Snatch T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Milking the Bull TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Overlooked T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Pale Rider T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Perverted Inspiration T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Practice Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rusty Nut Roof T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Son of Great Chimney T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Son of Great Chimney Direct T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Whipping Boy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wild West T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 55 ft (17 m) |
| GPS: | 43.4203, -89.73836 |
| FA: | Michael Shaffer |
| Page Views: | 2,449 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Nezbit on Jun 14, 2014 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
Description
On-Sight Beta:
Climb straight up the face directly beneath the roof that marks the beginning of The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. Move left to a thin crack and continue to the top after the big move on the original line.
Flash Beta:
Powerful, sustained, and unprotected climbing leads into the original line put up by John Scott. A fall before establishing on the flared vertical just above the roof is certain to be unpleasant. A very shallow yet good #1 C4 can be placed in the flare and protects the climber while pulling the roof. A piton waits above. Marginal, micro gear is available just before the big move ahead and a good placement is available right after. After the big move, do a short traverse left to a thin crack and prepare for a third crux section.
3 Comments