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Routes in Great Chimney Area

Bastard Chimney, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coup d'Etat T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cracker Jack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Day TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get Jacked T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct), The T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked, The T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Handle With Care T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hiker Envy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Beef Injection T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Match the Snatch T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Milking the Bull TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Overlooked T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pale Rider T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Perverted Inspiration T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Practice Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Son Of Great Chimney T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Son of Great Chimney Direct T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whipping Boy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild West T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 532 total, 6/month
Shared By: Andy Hansen on Sep 26, 2010
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

This is an unnamed route in Sven's book. Get Jacked starts to the left of The Good, The Bad & The Jacked but not on the detached block. Climb a jam crack for 20 feet into a cramped little alcove. From here use the sharp layback flake to a nice stance. Have fun with the decent amount of run out. On top of this platform, you're almost to the top, wonder if you have the right gear to protect the last move (Red BD C3), place it, and do a strange mantle to top out. Variations are certainly possible. Alternatively one could eliminate all features and focus solely using the offwidth just to the right (Hot Beef Injection). Possibly harder than 5.6 but better protected.

Protection

Good down low, none through the middle and barely any up top.

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.6
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
  5.6
We stemmed across. No gear the way *you* went! but if you're not hauling big gear, it wouldn't really matter ...

I enjoyed it! Jun 20, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
 
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
 
Doug, I looked at the picture you posted of Michael climbing and for whatever reason when I climbed the route I went left instead of right into the wide crack. None the less, either way you do it, it probably adds up to about 5.6, right? Jun 20, 2013
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.6
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
  5.6
Andy, I can't decide if you mean route 59? If so, then I thought it was very well protected, it just needs big gear (#3-5 BD camalots). Jun 20, 2013