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Routes in Great Chimney Area

Bastard Chimney, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coup d'Etat T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cracker Jack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Day TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get Jacked T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct), The T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked, The T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Handle With Care T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hiker Envy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Beef Injection T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Match the Snatch T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Milking the Bull TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Overlooked T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pale Rider T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Perverted Inspiration T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Practice Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Son Of Great Chimney T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Son of Great Chimney Direct T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whipping Boy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild West T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 152 total, 8/month
Shared By: Ted Pinson on Apr 24, 2016
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Start on right side of the face near the 5.6 chimney and carefully move to the left onto the ledge. Alternatively, you can also do a direct bouldery start onto the ledge (more fun). Follow the very thin crack to the ledge and finish up either side to top out. Smile for the crowds (hence the name). Crux is definitely the face leading up to the ledge...some very delicate, balancey "5.8" (by DL standards) moves.

Location

Unnamed Route 57 in the Swartling guidebook. Rap or hike down the sketchy access gully. If you rappel, expect an audience due to the lookout nearby.

Protection

Solid boulders and trees for TR anchor. Small stuff to lead. Like Cracker Jack, it has a ledge near the top that could be used to split up the climb into 2 pitches, but the second pitch would only be about 10 feet.

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