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Routes in Great Chimney Area

Bastard Chimney, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coup d'Etat T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cracker Jack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Day TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get Jacked T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct), The T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked, The T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Handle With Care T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hiker Envy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Beef Injection T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Match the Snatch T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Milking the Bull TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Overlooked T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pale Rider T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Perverted Inspiration T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Practice Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Son Of Great Chimney T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Son of Great Chimney Direct T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whipping Boy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild West T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Pete Clevland, onsight pounding pins, 1968
Page Views: 14,123 total · 99/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 6, 2006
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Son of Great Chimney is an inspiring and intimidating line for the grade. Start on the left side of the north face. Off balance moves up the arete will lead you past pins, and into the middle crux and a few big moves. Make your way over to the right side, and finish up the right hand arete. Don't forget to enjoy the view.

It is true that Pete's onsight lead in 68 was one of the greatest single moments in DL history. Not to mention the rest of the country.

Location

Hard to miss if you are looking at it from the top of Prospect point.

Protection

Fixed pins, some old, some have been replaced with new reqruits lately. Wires, small cams.

Photos

David A Groth
Lacrosse
David A Groth   Lacrosse
Give it all the stars....it is one the DL's best test piece routes. Oct 25, 2006
Eddie Avallone
Lewisburg, WV
Eddie Avallone   Lewisburg, WV
how is this thing for pro, are the pins gone? if so, do nuts work where they were? Nov 27, 2006
David A Groth
Lacrosse
David A Groth   Lacrosse
The gear on the route is good but spaced out in places. Most of the old pins have cams and wire placements close. Just don't pass up any good gear placements and you will be fine. I would recommend putting in a few pieces at the crux in the center of the route.
Make sure you use the pin & large sideways wire placement at the start.
bring extra 1" to 2" cams

I think Pete's 1965 onsight lead good be one of best accomplishment at DL! May 5, 2007
Tradiban
  5.11c
Tradiban  
  5.11c
Wow, great route, the crux had some awkward finger stacking for me. Led today grabbing handfuls of snow on the top out. I used a #0 cam at the start, wouldn't want to fall there though. Gear is spaced out so a fall would be long one but safe. Anyone have opinions on the block halfway up that you can place nuts behind? It looks solidly wedged in there, anybody seen a fall on it?
Pins are still there but I don't they are needed anymore with the tiny pro we can buy in this day and age.
I second Pete's on-sight as the greatest accomplishment at DL.
BTW, ignore this climb if it's under 30 degrees, very shady area. Nov 26, 2008
Kris Gorny

  5.11c PG13
Kris Gorny    
  5.11c PG13
Nick -- the block does feel hollow and little iffy. I think it's ok for little falls, especially when a nut is placed at the bottom of the block. I would not risk a big fall on it -- I don't think the entire block would dislodge (not yet at least) but for the gear to pull, the block needs to move just a little. There are solid small cam placements higher up on the left but one needs to be careful with the rope (see the pic of the fall). I remember adding a #1 BD cam/long sling in the crack to the right. In any case, falling near the top is always an adventure, imho (see pic again :)).

Nice lead man! Way to send it in the snow. Dec 6, 2008
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
  5.11c PG13
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
  5.11c PG13
A benchmark climb for the grade and certainly one of the best routes at the lake. May 15, 2009
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
  5.11+
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
  5.11+
Did it w/o pins and it felt super solid. My pro went grey alien, offset green/blue alien+number 7 BD nut in horizontal, blue alien, black mastercam, green alien, purple alien. Easily the best route I've ever been on and, though I don't claim to be a DL hardman/master, the best route at the lake in my opinion. Rhoads and I were talking about it and we both seem feel Pete's ascent is almost to the point of myth. I'm glad I was even able to do a route he did! Nov 8, 2009
Tradiban
  5.11c
Tradiban  
  5.11c
Did anyone notice that Sven says this is 5.11a in the new guide! Sep 21, 2010
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
I believe Son of a Great was the first .11c in the US. Sep 22, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11b PG13
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11b PG13
Not sure about the first 11c in the US, is that true? A while back I said to Gorny that I wasn't sure it was really 11c. Gorny's response was, "Maybe, maybe not. But it is a fantastic climb." Yup.

To me it still does not feel 2 letters harder than Thoroughfare or Beginner's Demise, but that shouldn't detract from the amazing experience of climbing it. Sep 22, 2010
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Not sure if this thing is completely accurate, but
stanford.edu/~clint/yos/har…

It is listed as the one of the first 5.11s. So I was wrong. Sep 23, 2010
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Doesn't SOGC get the two extra leter grades just for its obvious intimidation factor? The whole route is quite fear inducing when looking at it standing below and sizing it up... Sep 23, 2010
Tradiban
  5.11c
Tradiban  
  5.11c
C'mon, do you really think this is the same grade as Thoroughfare, Cop-Out, Beginners Demise, etc? SOGC is at least 5.11b Sep 23, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11b PG13
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11b PG13
You're probably right Nick. I did not flash SOGC despite having good beta. Sep 24, 2010
Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
Can anybody give me a better idea of where the regular SOGC and the direct split? Is it from that no-hands/sit-down ledge, or is it above that? When I led this, I finished in the center of the face, which I found easier, but also placed some pro in the arete. Oct 5, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11b PG13
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11b PG13
My understanding is at the last piton. From there reach a couple feet left and up into/onto the left-facing crack system and strenuously crank onto the face. Oct 5, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.11a
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.11a
FINALLY led this yesterday(not sure what took me so long). I used to feel it was hard 11, but I have great beta for the crux and now think 11a is a better fit. Oct 29, 2011
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11b PG13
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11b PG13
To whom is missing it: I was able to get your stuck DMM nut free. PM me and I'll get it back to you. May 21, 2016
I was super excited to lead this route with the encouragement/belay of Clayton Groth. As my climbing abilities are not up to the standard of a lot of people who have lead this route, I headpointed it and threw in (Beta alert):

A couple of extra pieces to supplement the gear beta that Chris posted on the Direct's page. I threw a sling over a big block on climbers left to "protect" the moves up to the first couple pitons, backed up those pitons with a red C3 and threw a blue dmm offset nut in the separated block/shield. An excellent route and I have deep respect for those who have lead it with inferior gear and better style. Oct 17, 2016

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