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Routes in 04: Great Chimney Area

Bastard Chimney, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coup d'Etat T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cracker Jack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Day TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Get Jacked T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct), The T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked, The T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Handle With Care T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hiker Envy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Beef Injection T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Match the Snatch T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Milking the Bull TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Overlooked T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pale Rider T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Perverted Inspiration T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Practice Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Son Of Great Chimney T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Son of Great Chimney Direct T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whipping Boy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wild West T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
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Type: Trad, TR
FA: Dave Groth
Page Views: 2,861 total · 19/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 6, 2006
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Starts up in notch to the right of Son Of Great Chimney. On the right arete, it comes out swinging and finishes the same way SOGC does.


I know Dave's led it, though I am not sure if he calls it R or not.
Does Match the Snatch start on the ledge with the handcrack leading up to it? I don't know if I was on the route or not but I went left around the arete off the ledge and straight up to the awkward stance then onto the finish of SOGC. Does MtS stay closer to the right arete? Jul 16, 2007
Alex A
Alex A  
climbs the arete on the right side and finishs on sogc, if you did a dynamic move to a good hold, and matched the Snatch, your on route,
good name for this route, Jul 9, 2010
Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
Can anyone offer more beta for the start of this climb? It seems like there are some really hard moves on the arete, or some thin move about 10 feet right of the arete, but with a blank section at the bottom. Where should one start? Jul 15, 2011
  5.12a R
  5.12a R
Ok, I got the beta, ready?

Start on the platform, match the snatch and move left onto the face (gear can be placed off the platform, small C3's a few inches right of the snatch).
On the left face with good feet bump your left hand up to some good holds, work the feet up, then bump the right to the arete. Adjust the feet and bump the left up again, then switch the feet up and bump the right to a good under-cling, then rock over (or cross through) for a side-pull on a nice flake (more gear). From there your body will be on the right of the arete, 5.11 climbing from here. Sep 10, 2011
  5.12a R
  5.12a R
I led this today and linked into SOGC Direct for a 5.12b R. R because of a suspect placement of a small nut. If you blew the move to the flat jug higher up that nut would pull you into the chimney and if it blew you would go for a roller coaster ride to below the start possibly hitting blocks on the way.

I think Alex's comment above is incorrect. The "snatch" is very obviously right off the start and only 6ft off the pedestal, thus not a dynamic move. Sep 13, 2011
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Awesome Route! Bouldery moves with good flow up the corner.

Really impressive link-up by Rhoads, btw. Inspiring to see it done. Sep 14, 2011
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Glad you guys revived this route and sussed it out. Really fun. Thanks for the beta Rhoads/Lohre. Sep 17, 2011

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