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Rusty Nut Roof
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in 04: Great Chimney Area
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04: Great Chimney Area | 3963 TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bastard Chimney, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Coup d'Etat T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cracker Jack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dirty Day TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Get Jacked T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct), The T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Good, the Bad, and the Jacked, The T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
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Handle With Care T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hiker Envy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hot Beef Injection T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Match the Snatch T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Milking the Bull TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Overlooked T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Pale Rider T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Perverted Inspiration T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Practice Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rusty Nut Roof T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Son of Great Chimney T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Son of Great Chimney Direct T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Whipping Boy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wild West T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 43.4203, -89.73836 |
| FA: | TR: Sam L |
| Page Views: | 91 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Francis on Sep 4, 2025 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
Description
Its rare to find a line not listed in the expansive guidebooks of DL history or TRed into oblivion by the generations that came before. Although most unlisted or undone routes have slipped through the cracks for a reason, the Rusty Nut Roof is an exception.
Its position on the cliff, access from above, fun boulder start and hard headwall make it a worthy addition to the great chimney circuit. Takeaways from the quality are the lack of good gear at the crux and the traversing nature near easier terrain. Toproping and staying true to the line of difficulty are exercises DL climbers are familiar with, so these issues are small detractions. The lake is a special place where hard moves above crappy gear might actually raise the quality of a climb! Lol
Either way its easy to set up and nearby some other classics, so give it a try when you're nearby.
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