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Cracker Jack

5.8, Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 44 votes
FA: unknown by me
Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > W Bluff 05 - W… > 1: Prospect Poi… > 04: Great Chimney Area

Description

An awesome crack route with a huge ledge in the middle that makes it fun to do in two pitches. The bottom crack let's even the most clueless face climber sink perfect jams. The only negative is it tops out near the "survey marker" on the West Bluff and is often crowded with hikers checking out the stunning view.

Protection

standard rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The lower crack with great passive pro.
[Hide Photo] The lower crack with great passive pro.
Dirty Day to Wild West.
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I've seen no pictures of Dirty Day so this line is based on the MP description. Let me know if it is a little off.
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Milking the Bull is somewhere between Cracker Jack and the right corner - not sure of the exact line.
[Hide Photo] Dirty Day to Wild West. I've seen no pictures of Dirty Day so this line is based on the MP description. Let me know if it is a little off. Milking the Bull is somewhere between Cracker Jack and…
Isaac Therneau at a rest halfway up Cracker Jack on a beautiful October day, 2007.
[Hide Photo] Isaac Therneau at a rest halfway up Cracker Jack on a beautiful October day, 2007.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Man, that is the best protected X route I have ever done... Aug 28, 2006
Jay Knower
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
5.8
[Hide Comment] I corrected it--not X. Nov 9, 2006
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Good route. The bottom crack is fun and some of the moves make you feel quite exposed. Jul 20, 2009
Gabriel Neely
Denver
[Hide Comment] Dust off and bring the hexes! The bottom crack (and most fun section) feels like 5.6, while the next section contains the crux and trickier gear placements. A leader should be strong at the 5.8 grade and vigilant about the ledge in the event of a leader fall. In other words, use your gear. Sep 25, 2009
[Hide Comment] Had a mini epic when I soloed this one onsight. The bottom crack to the big ledge went smoothly but the next 15 feet were hard. What looks like another good ledge is actually a smooth sloping ramp with NO holds. Finally found a bit of a micro-edge in the upper right corner, moved up and onto the ledge, stuck my hands into the twin cracks above and about a thousand angry wasps came flying out. I got stung about 30 times as I flew up the rest of the route. May 4, 2010
Tradiban
  5.8
[Hide Comment] I didn't like this thing at all. The ledge breaks it up too much, the mantles are awkward, the top cracks are awkward, the top out is annoying with the touristas AND there seems to be a million flys living in the upper crack! Oct 17, 2010
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] Hee Hee.. Yup- them moves above the ledge are devious and can really sucker ya.. I think many folks end up having the same experience on this. Oct 18, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.8
[Hide Comment] How about some cheese with that whine Rhoads. ;)
Yeah the upper cracks are not as much fun as the lower half. IMO better to do this in two pitches. Oct 18, 2010
Tradiban
  5.8
[Hide Comment] FU Remo, I led this with a totally jacked middle finger after you spent all summer "Oooooooo, my POOR ankle (whine, whine, sniff, sniff)".

IMHO that this climb not be done at all.

Jay knower to myself during lead: "How's it going Rhoads?"

Rhoads: "It fucking sucks, I love it." Oct 18, 2010
Josh Knapp
East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.8
[Hide Comment] This route is cracker-Jacked! Jun 19, 2011
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] the climbing on the first pitch is good...though the protection is shitty... its a hand crack that opens up in the back making your placements shit... a few passively placed cams did the trick. The second pitch of this climb pretty well sucks. Jul 15, 2011