Double Cross
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
| Type: | Trad, 95 ft (29 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01659, -116.16383 |
| FA: | FFA: Woody Stark, Bill Briggs and Dick Webster, 1967 |
| Page Views: | 88,500 total · 303/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Morley on May 9, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
One of the best and most accessible of the easier moderates, Double Cross is perhaps the most climbed (i.e, crowded) route in the entire Park. Those who have not yet developed basic jamming technique will find this route quite difficult. Although easily protected, this route has been the site of several serious injuries and a few fatalities over the years.
Begin by climbing 25' up and then traverse left to gain the main crack. Continue for another 70' of stellar hand to fist crack. Belay from 3-bolt anchor.
If crowded (as it often is), consider Double Start (just to the right), Dogleg, or Sexy Grandma.
Descent: Rap to ground (a single 50m rope just barely makes it).
Many, many pages of discussion about the route have been moved to the ?Double Cross Discussion? in the Southern California Forum.



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