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Routes in The Old Woman - West Face

Band Saw T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bridwell-Sustad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cavity, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dandelion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dandelion Stem TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dandelion Wine TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dogleg T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Cross T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Iron Man's Traverse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lower Band T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Middle Band T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Northwest Chimney T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Orphan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 499 T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sexy Grandma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sexy Grandpa T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Treinte Anos T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ken Rose and Rob Hershey, Feb, 1972, FFA: Charles Cole and Randy Vogel, March 1986
Page Views: 236 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ken Rose on Nov 25, 2015
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb into a small bowl just to the right of ORPHAN. Climb up and left across the fact to a belay in the DOUBLE START chimney. Drop down a few feet, then continue left to the top of DOGLEG.

Location

Located just right of Orphan. Belay and descent same as DOGLEG.

Protection

No bolts. We originally did the route with aid using good ole pitons, but it has since been done free.

Photos

Randy
 
Randy  
 
That this route hadn't gone free as of the mid-1980s was surprising. But, then again, it probably had never had a second ascent -- and Trente Anos and Middle Band (which had been freed years earlier) were notoriously hard to protect.

When Charles and I looked at it (and Lower Band which was also still aid), none of the climbing looked particularly hard and the gear not too difficult to place. It went free at a surprisingly easy grade, though the rock in places (the initial crack) was very gritty.

Freeing Lower Band at a moderate grade encouraged us to free this one too. Dec 3, 2015
C Miller   CA  
Ken, thanks for posting; the rating has been changed to reflect the fact the route now goes free (first done with aid at 5.6 A2 and later freed at 5.10c R). Nov 26, 2015
Great story.

Love that song. "I am iron man....." Nov 25, 2015
Ken Rose  
 
Why the name? Well, we originally did it with aid, getting ready for Yosemite and had a lot of 'iron' on our rack. We were also listening to 'Iron Man' by Black Sabbath! Ken Nov 25, 2015