Avg: 2.6 from 83 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m)|
|Page Views:||2,878 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Apr 13, 2001|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Approach and begin climbing as for Double Cross. When Double-Cross moves up and left, Route 499 moves out right to a set of seams just above a dark bulge. These opening moves where the line separates are relatively easy (5.8) and I suppose more than one non-vigilant leader has been mistakenly sucked onto the wrong line. I would not want to lead this line though, as the climbing gets more difficult and insecure as the route progresses, and protection is not be available. Climb the seam to its top, about 45' off of the start, and continue straight up on the face above, past a horizontal and onward through a few more short seams, just to the right of a dark section of rock. This is the crux of the route. Crimp, smear and sidepull. From the crux, head up through a shallow concave feature to the ledge/belay as shared with Double Cross.
To descend, rap from the anchors above the route.
Side-note: I tried this right after applying sunscreen on a hot sunny day and got to a crux crimp that just would not stick, as my sweaty-oily hands baked and slipped each time. The rock was so good and the friction was so high (with the exception of on my hands) that I got the crux with a contortionist-looking toe-hook to the right, in front of my face, which held me for a dead-point! An subsequent ascent on my next trip to J-tree made this feel much better, however, WITHOUT the sunscreen.