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Routes in The Old Woman - West Face

Band Saw T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bridwell-Sustad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cavity, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dandelion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dandelion Stem TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dandelion Wine TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dogleg T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Cross T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Iron Man's Traverse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lower Band T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Middle Band T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Northwest Chimney T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Orphan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 499 T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sexy Grandma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sexy Grandpa T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Treinte Anos T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Bob Gaines, Andrea Tomaszewski & Bill Russell, December 1998
Page Views: 12,071 total, 62/month
Shared By: Steven Powers on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a fun route that goes up the arete to the left of Band Saw and turns the roof on good holds. This route is really well protected and along with great climbing it makes for a good alternative when Double Cross or other climbs on this face are being climbed. There is a two bolt rap/belay anchor (one 60m rope reaches on lowering).

Protection

4 bolts up the arete and over a roof to a good crack that takes 2-3" pro
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
Todd, I am not in a position to add to the debate whether this route needs another bolt, just wanted to give everyone a head's up. I have clipped many of your bolts over the years - thanks for the hard work.

I was able to yard in a foot or two of slack as the piton pulled, and as he kept falling, I threw myself down to the ground. Pretty sure he would have decked, otherwise. I can't say whether the hard catch contributed to the pin pulling - it all happened so fast and I was trying to prevent a ground fall. Just very glad he made it out unharmed. Having never seen a pin pull like that, it was an eye opener and a learning experience. Oct 11, 2017
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
Glad your friend is OK.....sounds like a scary moment! Fixed pins have their place, but can be dicey. Today I went into the Park and hand drilled a bolt where the piton used to be. This accident which happened will not happen again on this climb. The Sexy Grandma is a very popular climb, for very good reason;..it's a fantastic climb. The crappy piton is gone. Within 30 min., another party was on the climb; so glad they didn't have to do the climb without any protection for this section! Oct 10, 2017
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
Update 10/8/17. My partner slipped just below the roof (hadn't yet clipped the 2nd bolt), pulled the pin below and took a 20 footer. Came very close to decking, actually banged his knee on the ground due to rope stretch. The pin appeared to be in good shape prior.

So, if you've read through all the above and expect a totally benign clip-up, you could be in for a surprise. Oct 9, 2017
gavinsmith
Toronto, Ontario
5.8
gavinsmith   Toronto, Ontario
5.8
I thought this was pretty easy with the 3 bolts and 2 pretty good-looking pins in convenient places. I was prepared to back up the first bolt with a .3 or .4, but the bolt at the crux (passing the roof) is great looking. The slab moves above the roof weren't bad (I've had harder slab at the grade). I happened to have a #2 so protected the last couple metres with it, but was not necessary. Jan 4, 2016
Between bolts and and fixed pins, no pro is really needed. The crux seems to be getting out of the crack and onto the arete. Fun route! Sep 3, 2014
Drederek
  5.8+
Drederek  
  5.8+
Very fun route, its the softest 9 I've done here. Apr 27, 2014
Gavin Bridgeman
Tustin, California
 
Gavin Bridgeman   Tustin, California
 
Stellar sport climb not to be missed if your in the area! Mar 8, 2014
Brandon Bateman
Montrose, CA
  5.9
Brandon Bateman   Montrose, CA
  5.9
This is a great sport route. A bit after the last bolt it felt like class three so putting pro in would help ease the mind but it isn't necessary. Jan 21, 2013
Canon
  5.9
Canon  
  5.9
Poor feet getting up the chute for the reach right onto the arete for the second bolt (pin?) Funky moves under the roof to get onto the arete after the third bolt. Nov 17, 2012
Rob M
Shangri-LA
Rob M   Shangri-LA
Lots of fun. Stem first part-don't get sucked into trying to get into crack on low section. I used a piece before first bolt since it is a long fall if you go to either side of the belay.
This is teh crux, imo.

Run out after last bolt, but really easy after that too. I put in a piece a few feet before the anchor as a feel good move.

It helps to remember to retrieve said piece so you don't have to lead it again when you are tired at the end of the day. Really smooth move.

Definitely 5.9 on bottom, 9+ to prevent barn door pulling that little roof. Probably 5.6 last 20 feet 30 feet and totaaly run out, but not really scary. Mar 27, 2012
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  5.9+
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
  5.9+
Sexy Grandma is about the closest it gets to sport climbing in the Park. Fun route. Jan 5, 2009
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.9
I don't believe that the addition of another bolt to this route by the FA party tips to balance of the run-out climbs to safe climbs in the Monument. I am not bothered by well protected (bolt) climbs in this range for the everyday climber. If it were 5.12 the amount of bolts wouldn't be an issue. On the other side of the coin, I can relate to the disappointment by someone whom did it before the addition of protection. I had the same experience on Valhalla were we pro'd it with shaky sliding nuts and now there are bolt(s). But really who cares in the long run with so many routes to do. The only time it matters is when we have someone who is listening to us tell stories around the campfire. Jan 7, 2006
Bo Johnston
  5.8+
Bo Johnston  
  5.8+
I first climbed this route a couple of years ago on the advice of a local who said it was 5.10a. I think the 8+ is more accurate. Fun climbing with a nice rap station makes it a quick and fun line to hit every time you visit the park. Apr 18, 2005
I did this route for the first time yesterday. I wish I'd done it before; it was quite enjoyable. I'd give it a solid nine. Before posting this comment, I reviewed all previous comments. I'm beginning to think that there is a bit of childish posing on the part of some trying to make the rest of us believe that a route is spoiled if it's reasonably safe. There are plenty of routes out there for anyone wanting to show off and beat their chests. A little maturity and common sense is always a plus. Nov 27, 2004
Randy
  5.9
Randy  
  5.9
hey this is a fun route and thanks for your time, money,effort, and Vision Nov 13, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
(OK I too apologize for the length of this post)

I agree with Steve P. 100%! Not because he is a friend but because in my opinion he is correct. Want it the old way? Leave your rack and all other modern gear and then climb with hemp. Even if bolts are added after the fact (As some have been) if it helps to save lives or people from serious injury, I and my son are all for it. There are tons of climbs out there that are pristine and waiting. It would be great if things were to fit all of our personal likes. But that will never happen. All things (ALL!) change like it or not. Maybe getting away from the most popular climbs is in order? The area in question is so used that it to me is like Disney Land. I avoid it all together until the summer months. Hup, two, three...............try HIKING! Now drop and give me 50! Oct 21, 2003
Steven Powers
  5.8+
Steven Powers  
  5.8+
okay ill start this with an apology for the length of this post.

Murf- first only one bolt was added to this climb not counting the anchor, the bolt was added by the first acsentionist, this was his descion and should be respected not scrutinized,this is america, not russia. the bolt was added because, some one ( not the great murf) could easily fall and get hurt, this is a excellent and popular climb, and gets done many times a week, the chances of somone getting hurt without the bolt are probablly 100%, the first acsentionist dosnt want that on his conscience. This area has seen enough blood shed, not every climb needs to be safe, but the first acsent party chose this climb to be a safe one, you should respect this. as for the pin being moved down, the original pin fell out i hope noone got hurt, it was placed lower in better rock, as for the anchor, another descion by the first acsent party and it should'nt be a big deal. instead of complaining try saying thank you for preventing any accidents that may have occured from the over crowding the anchors on DC, which are used even more than the SG anchors. instead of being so negative about what has gone on with this route why not, "hey this is a fun route and thanks for your time, money,effort, and Vision". if you want to fill your pants with a stinking load i can give you a list of routes to go do, hopefully if and when you do new routes people will say thank you and respect the decisions you make regarding your new route, i will. STEVE-o Oct 20, 2003
Murf
  5.10a
Murf  
  5.10a
( Sorry in advance for the long post )

Friend of mine mentioned to me how one of his favorite warm up routes had been "ruined" by some added bolts. When he mentioned the location, I remembered the "evilution" of Sexy Grandma. I went back to take a look.

The first time I did this route I wasn't maxed out or at my limit. The route was memorable, however, it kept your interest and you had to make commiting moves with less than comfortable pro. This time I had to work to make it interesting.

I choose to forgo the first bolt, instead using a #3 Camalot a foot or two lower, that being my memory of the first time I went up. I made the insecure slab move and went up to the secure flake/edge stance. I clipped the pin.... My recollection here was that one had to leave this comfortable stance and make a commiting, but fairly easy move to clip the pin It seemed the pin had been moved down. I quickly moved through the overhang and prepared to put in the small TCU I remembered placing ... Whoops, now there's a pin where I remembered a TCU spot. I continue the fun slappy moves to the top. Hey look, a rap/anchor station.. Rather than stop there I decided I had the stamina for the easy but fun moves 25 feet up and left to the Double Cross anchors. I nodded to the folks rapping, and had a nice talk with the guy who had just come up.

Yes, Sexy Grandma has evolved. An engaging, memorable route has been sanitized to a much lower commitment level, and dropped into the barely recalled genre. We climb in a park that is being scrutinized everywhere from the front gate to the bouldering mat. It would seem placing new anchors, clearly visible from the ground, no less than 25' of easy climbing from existing achors, on one of the most popular crags in JT ( try saying all that in one breath ), would be so counter productive as to verge on self sabotage. Oct 19, 2003
Murf
  5.10a
Murf  
  5.10a
It must be so difficult to keep Todd in drill bits.

I'm not much bothered by whatever this route is rated. That being said, the last 5.8+ Todd told me about I had to wear my good shoes. I guess, if Steve-o will allow, I rate it 5.8 DMR. Oct 14, 2003
David Evans
  5.9+
David Evans  
  5.9+
I led it for the second time last season and it felt 5.9++ to me. The first time I did it it felt more like 5.8 (5 or so years ago). It is a very good route. Oct 13, 2003
Steven Powers
  5.8+
Steven Powers  
  5.8+
Todd and i replaced all the pins with bolts and added one down low. not 10a... not even close ill give 5.8+ but no more. Oct 11, 2003
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
I think the climb has "evolved" somewhat into more of a clip-up than when originally done. I recall a hand size piece to access the bolts and needing gear for the belay (which is not needed now). Pretty fun route and something to do if in the vicinity and/or waiting for your number at the ever popular Double Cross. Oct 9, 2003
Murf
  5.10a
Murf  
  5.10a
I believe I placed a small piece down low. I thought being tall helped on this one, especially clipping the pin after the move right. Don't remember 4-5 bolts, maybe 3 bolts and a pin? Oct 9, 2003