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Routes in The Old Woman - West Face

Band Saw T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bridwell-Sustad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cavity, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dandelion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dandelion Stem TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dandelion Wine TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dogleg T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Cross T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Iron Man's Traverse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lower Band T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Middle Band T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Northwest Chimney T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Orphan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 499 T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sexy Grandma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sexy Grandpa T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Treinte Anos T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jim Bridwell, Steve Sustad
Page Views: 1,361 total, 15/month
Shared By: Dave M Snyder on Apr 8, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Begin 5' left of Double Cross. Climb up to an overlap and drop in a couple cams (suggest you equalize them as it's a bit crunchy...but good). Mantle and move left to the first bolt. Move up & left. You get some more pro before another mantle, then a bolt. Move right into the dish and clip another bolt that protects the steep, pawing, slabby crux. Once above the crux, follow the left trending crack to the top of dogleg. There is a moderately sized, detached, slabby piece of rock above the crux. It hasn't come off and I doubt it will...but let your belayer beware.

Protection

3 bolts. I believe a 2 and 3 camalot for the beginning overlap. 1" and under sized pieces for the remainder of the route and a lot of runners.

Photos

Aaron covington
Pinon hills, ca
 
Aaron covington   Pinon hills, ca
 
Good route if you enjoy a mild scare... I want to say original rating was 11a? bolts far apart, questionable gear, but if you'e solid in the grade its a fun adventure Nov 16, 2017
Randy
  5.11a
Randy  
  5.11a
An OK route, but hardly stellar. 2 of 5 stars. Apr 9, 2010