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Routes in The Old Woman - West Face

Band Saw T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bridwell-Sustad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cavity, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dandelion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dandelion Stem TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dandelion Wine TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dogleg T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Cross T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Iron Man's Traverse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lower Band T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Middle Band T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Northwest Chimney T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Orphan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 499 T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sexy Grandma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sexy Grandpa T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Treinte Anos T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dick Webster and Woody Stark, Feb. 1967
Page Views: 2,315 total, 17/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jul 7, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A nice chimney with fair protection. It gets its name from the fact that you climb a short chimney/flake on the left, then traverse right into the upper half of the more obvious chimney. Rappel off from the top.

Location

This route is on the southwest face of Old Woman. It is the first major crack system to the right of Double Cross.

Protection

Gear to 4 inches.

Photos

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Really liked this route - clean, varied movement, easy to protect (YMMV).

I didn't actually find any 4" placements, and even the one 3" I placed (last move to the anchor) seemed optional. Did use doubles of everything smaller, though. Feb 21, 2016
1970 guide states: "The block halfway up is most easily passed to the left." Jan 3, 2016
yosenhuttle
  5.7
yosenhuttle  
  5.7
Tricky move out of the chute at the beginning of the climb... 1st time I've ever used an elbow jam Mar 15, 2011
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
Also, if you plan on knocking out some climbs on the east face, you can scramble easily over to the Toe Jam/bearded cabbage anchors directly across on the opposite side and rap from them. Nov 25, 2009
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Descend by rapping either Double Cross or Sexy Grandma. Jan 5, 2009