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Routes in The Old Woman - West Face

Band Saw T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bridwell-Sustad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cavity, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dandelion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dandelion Stem TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dandelion Wine TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dogleg T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Cross T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Iron Man's Traverse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lower Band T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Middle Band T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Northwest Chimney T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Orphan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 499 T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sexy Grandma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sexy Grandpa T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Treinte Anos T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, Dave Mayville, 1/94.
Page Views: 878 total, 6/month
Shared By: Randy on Dec 31, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route lies to the right of Dogleg Begin below the left side of a large downpointing "Fang" flake/cave feature (same start as The Fang).

Up the left side of the Fang flake (use 1st bolt on The Fang), then continue up face climbing past 3 more bolts and a horizontal crack to finish at the belay for Dogleg.

Protection

Pro to 2 inches, 4 bolts.

Photos

Bob Gaines
  5.11d
Bob Gaines  
  5.11d
Murf, I think you should revise your bomb rating since it appears you were rating the wrong route! The rock quality from the second bolt to the top is really good. With the new bolts I'd give this one two stars. Nov 18, 2017
Bob Gaines
  5.11d
Bob Gaines  
  5.11d
All the bolts have been replaced with bomber 1/2 inch stainless steel bolts Nov 4, 2017
The first bolt is a sketchy star dryvin. The rock from the ground to the roof move is pretty bad. Make the funky, powerful roof move, and traverse up and right to the next bolt, then further right to the third bolt. The crux moved get you to the first horizontal. After multiple failed attempts trying to figure out a way to climb directly up to the horizontal from the bolt, I found a more reasonable set of moves trending a bit right and up. From the horizontal, the climbing eases significantly. Though I hangdogged up this thing on TR, I find it hard to believe it's easier than 11d. The B-S route (aka "Route 499" ?) on the other hand is far better quality and significantly easier. Aug 24, 2009
Randy
 
Randy  
 
DE, the 1947 route number is the (new) route number (for The Cavity) in Joshua Tree West...will be out in March (just sent back the proofs). Sorry about the confusion. Jan 13, 2006
Or...am I mistaking 1947 for 1247? Jan 12, 2006
Is this mismarked in the photo? The marked route was originally a 10b route that traversed off left (Tobin? Mike Wah?). Then the 11b finish was a tr section. Or, has it been bolted up and renamed? Jan 12, 2006
Murf
  5.11b
Murf  
  5.11b
Vern - I believe you are right, I'm thinking of B-S! Jan 11, 2006
Vernon Stiefel
  5.11d
Vernon Stiefel  
  5.11d
This climb begins at the same location as the Fang and stays on the left side of the "fang" to the first of four bolts before meandering right. The rock quality improves after the first two bolts and the crux, which is solid at 11d, is on good rock. One or maybe two out of five stars.

Murf, perhaps you are thinking of the route Bridwell - Sustad which is further right and 11a? Jan 10, 2006
Murf
  5.11b
Murf  
  5.11b
I believe I did this one a ways back. Poor rock after first bolt and last bolt. No way is it .11d. Jan 10, 2006