Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Don O'Kelley and Dave Davis, September 1971; FFA: John Long and others, December 1973
Page Views: 5,295 total · 23/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

On the south side of The Old Woman and 15' right of Orphan is this nice climb with a minimal approach and a variety of moves.

Start up a nice handcrack that arches up and right (crux) to meet a thin crack on a lower-angled ramp. Continue up the ramp with minimal protection as the crack peters out, until the top where a welcome bolt protects the last smeary moves to the top. You'll end up on the same ledge to belay as Toe Jam and it's neighboring routes; afterwards, move over 15' and rap off from bolted anchors atop Bearded Cabbage, circling back around the formation to reach your pack.

This route gets few stars in the guidebooks, but the climbing is good and there tends to be little traffic compared to some of the other nearby routes. Every bit as good as Orphan and not as thrutchy - have a go at it. One star out of five.

Protection Suggest change

Gear to 3", bolt (3/8")