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Dandelion
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.4 from 173
votes
Routes in The Old Woman - West Face
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Band Saw T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Bridwell-Sustad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cavity, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dandelion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dandelion Stem TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dandelion Wine TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dogleg T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Cross T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Double Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fang, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Iron Man's Traverse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Little Old Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lower Band T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Middle Band T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Northwest Chimney T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Orphan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 499 T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sexy Grandma S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sexy Grandpa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Treinte Anos T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01661, -116.16386 |
| FA: | Don O'Kelley and Dave Davis, September 1971; FFA: John Long and others, December 1973 |
| Page Views: | 5,596 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
On the south side of The Old Woman and 15' right of Orphan is this nice climb with a minimal approach and a variety of moves.
Start up a nice handcrack that arches up and right (crux) to meet a thin crack on a lower-angled ramp. Continue up the ramp with minimal protection as the crack peters out, until the top where a welcome bolt protects the last smeary moves to the top. You'll end up on the same ledge to belay as Toe Jam and it's neighboring routes; afterwards, move over 15' and rap off from bolted anchors atop Bearded Cabbage, circling back around the formation to reach your pack.
This route gets few stars in the guidebooks, but the climbing is good and there tends to be little traffic compared to some of the other nearby routes. Every bit as good as Orphan and not as thrutchy - have a go at it. One star out of five.
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