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Routes in The Old Woman - West Face

Band Saw T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bridwell-Sustad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cavity, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dandelion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dandelion Stem TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dandelion Wine TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dogleg T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Cross T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Iron Man's Traverse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lower Band T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Middle Band T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Northwest Chimney T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Orphan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 499 T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sexy Grandma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sexy Grandpa T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Treinte Anos T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 165 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Wolfe, 1969, FFA: Bill Antel and Kim Cooper, 1973
Page Views: 715 total, 6/month
Shared By: climberz on Jul 26, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb up a crack/ramp 10 feet to the base of the left facing corner. Climb 5 feet with no pro to reach the bolt -there are no hand holds and loose, grainy, rock for the feet. Scary! Stick clip? Bust moves up into horizontal, place hand sized gear, get scared and pumped, hand traverse left to place a old #4 camalot for protecting crux. Tell your belayer to put on goggles, then heal-hook and hand traverse the pumpy, flat, edge with kitty litter for feet. This was very hard! I failed on lead and when I top-roped this section from sexy grandma anchor. NO feet, they keep falling off. Makes a nice rain sound though. Continue traversing on much easier ground to the top of Dogleg. I did it in one pitch but had henious ropedrag. The follower would probably like the tighter belay possible with an intermediate anchor. I thought this climb looked cool. It does, but I would not recommend it, except for a good laugh. Covers a lot of ground on the old woman though.

Location

Between Sexy Grandma and the Orphan. Starts in a left facing corner with a good bolt 15-20 feet up. Decent same as Dogleg.

Protection

#4 camalot for the crux and standard rack for the rest. Goggles for the belayer. Stick clip?

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