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Routes in The Old Woman - West Face

Band Saw T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bridwell-Sustad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cavity, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dandelion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dandelion Stem TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dandelion Wine TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dogleg T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Cross T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Iron Man's Traverse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lower Band T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Middle Band T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Northwest Chimney T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Orphan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 499 T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sexy Grandma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sexy Grandpa T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Treinte Anos T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,289 total, 28/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 20, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Stem and jam up a hand-crack until the midway point where the crack widens to a chimney then dive in and try not to thrutch your way to the top.

Location

The obvious wide crack on the right side of the west face.

Protection

Gear to 4 inches (several larger pieces can be handy if uncomfortable in wide cracks)
90 feet? I was thinking more like 60. 90 from the dirt sounds right, but definitely 60 from where you start to climb. This climb seemed like it was over before I knew it. Apr 1, 2013
dindolino32  
 
This was my favorite lead climb during my last trip. It started with stemming, protected very well, and had a bit of everything. The tight chimney at the end kept things interesting. I found it easiest to face the left in the chimney. Mar 23, 2009
Darren D.
  5.9
Darren D.  
  5.9
This route will keep you warm on those windy J-Tree days. I was sweating when I finished it. Physical, but never really difficult. Apr 12, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.9
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.9
The topo for this pitch in the Bartlett guide shows the .9 crux in the fingers section. I found the crux to be entry into the wide section. Entire route protects well with gear to 4". 5.9 is fair. Nov 15, 2006
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
this is a great route and .9 is right on for the grade. the wide section at the top is no big deal- bomber gear and straightfoward movement easily dispatch it. Oct 22, 2006
Bo Johnston
  5.9+
Bo Johnston  
  5.9+
Perfect route if it wasn't for the finish. I hate that wide stuff. Feb 22, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9
I'm not sure why I avoided this route for so many years... it is an awesome climb!

The bottom 40-50 feet of stemming is superb with great pro. And the top 30 feet is relatively straightforward - at least for a wide crack :)

Good pro (#4 Camalot) protects the "crux" entry move into the wide section. Face right (left side in) and a little squirming gets your foot on the big fat edge. Once on this edge, face left (right side in) and straightforward shallow stemming and a little wide crack action gets you to the top. A second #4 or #3 Camalot comes in handy higher up, as the middle section is too wide for reasonable protection. Feb 11, 2006
mmurduff Mic
  5.10a
mmurduff Mic  
  5.10a
Now that it has been a few days, and my wounds have healed, I can say that This route was in fact enjoyable. The lower and middle section was both surprising and challenging. The upper section... well I can suggest wearing long pants. A true test of skill and sanity! Oct 30, 2005
Cpn Dunsel
  5.9+
Cpn Dunsel  
  5.9+
I found 4" pieces were helpful in the upper "grunt" section of the chimney. Is every route of this face of the Old Woman a test piece? Prepare for a challenging climb in the grade. Jan 28, 2004
Randy
  5.9
Randy  
  5.9
The actual first ascent (free) of this route was no later than 1954, and likely earlier. Dec 17, 2003
I and quite a few others I've climbed with over the years have felt this route should be rated 10a. Anyway you cut it, it's a great route. Mar 11, 2003