Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,098 total · 30/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 20, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Stem and jam up a hand-crack until the midway point where the crack widens to a chimney then dive in and try not to thrutch your way to the top.

Location

The obvious wide crack on the right side of the west face.

Protection

Gear to 4 inches (several larger pieces can be handy if uncomfortable in wide cracks)
I and quite a few others I've climbed with over the years have felt this route should be rated 10a. Anyway you cut it, it's a great route. Mar 11, 2003
Randy
Lassitude 33
  5.9
Randy   Lassitude 33
  5.9
The actual first ascent (free) of this route was no later than 1954, and likely earlier. Dec 17, 2003
Cpn Dunsel
  5.9+
Cpn Dunsel  
  5.9+
I found 4" pieces were helpful in the upper "grunt" section of the chimney. Is every route of this face of the Old Woman a test piece? Prepare for a challenging climb in the grade. Jan 28, 2004
mmurduff Mic
  5.10a
mmurduff Mic  
  5.10a
Now that it has been a few days, and my wounds have healed, I can say that This route was in fact enjoyable. The lower and middle section was both surprising and challenging. The upper section... well I can suggest wearing long pants. A true test of skill and sanity! Oct 30, 2005
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9
I'm not sure why I avoided this route for so many years... it is an awesome climb!

The bottom 40-50 feet of stemming is superb with great pro. And the top 30 feet is relatively straightforward - at least for a wide crack :)

Good pro (#4 Camalot) protects the "crux" entry move into the wide section. Face right (left side in) and a little squirming gets your foot on the big fat edge. Once on this edge, face left (right side in) and straightforward shallow stemming and a little wide crack action gets you to the top. A second #4 or #3 Camalot comes in handy higher up, as the middle section is too wide for reasonable protection. Feb 11, 2006
Bo Johnston
  5.9+
Bo Johnston  
  5.9+
Perfect route if it wasn't for the finish. I hate that wide stuff. Feb 22, 2006
J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
this is a great route and .9 is right on for the grade. the wide section at the top is no big deal- bomber gear and straightfoward movement easily dispatch it. Oct 22, 2006
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.9
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.9
The topo for this pitch in the Bartlett guide shows the .9 crux in the fingers section. I found the crux to be entry into the wide section. Entire route protects well with gear to 4". 5.9 is fair. Nov 15, 2006
Darren D.
  5.9
Darren D.  
  5.9
This route will keep you warm on those windy J-Tree days. I was sweating when I finished it. Physical, but never really difficult. Apr 12, 2007
dindolino32  
 
This was my favorite lead climb during my last trip. It started with stemming, protected very well, and had a bit of everything. The tight chimney at the end kept things interesting. I found it easiest to face the left in the chimney. Mar 23, 2009
90 feet? I was thinking more like 60. 90 from the dirt sounds right, but definitely 60 from where you start to climb. This climb seemed like it was over before I knew it. Apr 1, 2013
plantmandan
Brighton, CO
  5.9
plantmandan   Brighton, CO
  5.9
Very fun route. It's surprisingly uncrowded given its location. The lower section is great. The upper section gave me a beating (reminded me of Vedauwoo climbing), and at one point I slipped and was held up only by a double knee bar. Perhaps body type makes a difference in the upper section. I'm 6'2 and over 200lbs, and it felt like a squeeze chimney to me.

Save some bigger cams for the finish. Oct 15, 2018
Wesley
Sequoia National Park, CA
  5.9
Wesley   Sequoia National Park, CA
  5.9
The finger and hand crack down low is superb. I very much enjoyed the bottom.

The top is very exciting and was my first experience in wide crack/chimney. I faced left based on advice here and it worked ok. 2 days ago