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Routes in The Old Woman - West Face

Band Saw T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bridwell-Sustad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cavity, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dandelion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dandelion Stem TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dandelion Wine TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dogleg T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Cross T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Iron Man's Traverse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lower Band T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Middle Band T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Northwest Chimney T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Orphan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 499 T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sexy Grandma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sexy Grandpa T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Treinte Anos T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Charles Cole and Gib Lewis, 1983
Page Views: 1,745 total, 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start off a block and make funky, unprotected 5.10 moves to a high first bolt which you'll be glad to clip as there are some thin moves above the bolt climbing up to a small roof (pro possible here). After the roof pass a horizontal crack and then continue up well protected face past two more bolts. A small cam will fit in a horizontal after the last bolt and protect the finishing moves to a ledge. Scramble left to rap anchors atop Double Cross, or alternately it's possible to traverse left in a horizontal and reach the Sexy Grandma anchors.

A fun route that would be a lot more popular lead if it had some decent pro at the start. This is one climb you probably won't be waiting in line for and a good climb to do when on this side of the rock.

Location

Located on the west side of The Old Woman, about 25' right of Double Cross and 10' right of Sexy Grandma.

Protection

3 bolts (3/8"), pro to 3"

Photos

Brad J
  5.10c R
Brad J  
  5.10c R
Lead this thing several times but with traffic this route is changing. Like Bob said "graininess is gone". Last time was a few years back, when I turned 60. I was very happy to have a removable bolt with me. Holds getting to the first bolt are a little more sketchy than they used to be. Either because of all the top roping or me getting old and scared. Probably both. By the way, the bolt that got chopped was Bridwell's. In Jtree not even the legends can add a bolt :-) Apr 15, 2015
Bob Gaines
  5.10c R
Bob Gaines  
  5.10c R
Led it onsight back in the day (1980's). I remember the scariest part was a cruel surprise when I got to the last bolt, a 1/4 inch spinner protruding way out of it's hole, and I wasn't sure how hard the rest of the grainy slab was.

After we put up Sexy Grandma the route became very popular to TR off the Sexy Grandma anchor, and the graininess is gone. Even though now I have it ruthlessly wired, don't think I'll be leading this one unless someone retros a bolt for the start. Maybe ask permission from Charles Cole?

I think someone added a bolt, it got chopped, but the hole remained. For a while there was a fixed removeable bolt (swaged cable and all) hanging out of the hole, but it's long gone. Feb 13, 2014
Ryan Watts
Bishop, CA
Ryan Watts   Bishop, CA
How many people have actually onsight lead this route? Sure the bottom is "only" 5.10 but it's pretty thin and sequential.

The only way I could see it being reasonable to lead is if you had the moves to the first bolt totally wired. Maybe I'm just chicken... Feb 13, 2014
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
The bolts have been replaced with modern hardware. A fall, however, before clipping the first bolt would likely result in a visit to the hospital. There is currently a bolt hole right off the deck that *might* offer some protection using a removable bolt. The moves in reaching the first bolt are definitely solid 5.10. Oct 26, 2004