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Areas in Rhode Island

Arcadia Management Area 1 / 0 / 5 / 117 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 122
Ballard Park (closed) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Beach Pond 0 / 0 / 0 / 32 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32
Black Hut Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Buckeye Boulders, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 21 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Carr's Pond Boulders in the Big River Management Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Connors Farm 0 / 0 / 0 / 94 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 94
De Coppet Estate, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Diamond Hill 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Durfee Hill 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Fort Wetherill State Park (closed) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Lincoln Woods 0 / 0 / 7 / 534 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 541
Narragansett 0 / 0 / 0 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Rockville 0 / 0 / 0 / 37 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 37
Rocky Point 0 / 0 / 1 / 66 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 67
Rome Point 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Snake Den 0 / 0 / 1 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Wickaboxet Management Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Wolf Hill Quarry 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 46 ft
GPS: 41.807, -71.406 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Joe M. on Jul 30, 2010
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

Description

Rhode Island might be the smallest state in the union, but it has plenty to offer climbing wise if you are a fan of its more diminutive form. There is a well developed bouldering community here, with the main focus being Lincoln Woods State Park, just north west of Providence. Being close to the city and its numerous colleges, the boulders and ledges of the 600+ acre park have been climbed on extensively since the early 70s. The quality, number of routes and fact that it is often free of snow when other places are covered means frequent visitors from the neighboring states as well, all who have helped add lines and upped the grades. There are hundreds of established lines, currently up to V13-14.

Less well known, smaller, but sometimes high quality areas are scattered around the state, mostly in the western half, in the various management areas. If you want to take a break from the somewhat urban experience of Lincoln Woods and maybe find some new lines, exploring these other areas is recommended. There are gems out there, like the excellent Lost Boulder, a lone boulder of impeccable granite. It is found in the Arcadia Management Area, an area developed in the past, but with new spots popping up.

There is not much for roped climbing. Unfortunately, the best areas for that have been closed, like Diamond Hill and Long Pond. There is a bit of fairly short top roping available on the ledges of Durfee Hill, Snake Den, Mt. Tom and Breakheart Ledge (Arcadia), Beach Pond and Wickaboxet. For nearby roped climbing, you are usually better off heading over the border to Connecticut or Mass.

Getting There

The smallest state in the U.S., south of Massachusetts and east of Connecticut.

Beta

Rhode Island is a fairly urban area and as such, the most popular climbing area, Lincoln Woods, tends to reflect that. There is not much camping available. However, the climbing is challenging and interesting and there is a vibrant local community.

987 Total Climbs

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Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
I'm not sure if any of you are aware of this, I wasn't, but the RI State Park Regulations have changed with regard to rock climbing. It use to just say that rock climbing was permitted in all state parks and management areas except for Fort Wetherill. It now requires a waiver of liability (section below). You can get a copy of the waiver here: climbri.org/DEM-Waiver.pdf You may want to have a copy in your car or pack in case a DEM cop ever asks for it.

"17.9 Rock climbing is permitted at state parks, and management areas except at Fort Wetherill State Park, Jamestown. However, in State Park Areas individuals participating in rock climbing activities must sign a release and waiver of liability (a copy of which is attached hereto and designated as Appendix # 1) prior to commencement of rock climbing activity. For organized group of any size, a group must submit a Special Use Application to the Chief of the Division of Parks and Recreation and obtain prior written approval of said Application. In addition, each member of the group of participants must sign Appendix #1 prior to commencement of any rock climbing activities in the State Parks. If the organized group is being sponsored by a commercial entity, the sponsor must provide evidence of the issuance of liability insurance in the amount of at least One Million ($1,000,000.00) Dollars naming the State of Rhode Island as an additional insured at the time of the submittal of its Special Use Application."
Apr 30, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
It will be great to have that info, Joe, now that it is legal.

Jun 29, 2015
Joe M.    
Yes, there has been climbing there for many years, it was all under the radar since it was private land until recently. Planning on adding it to MP once I can get some info on the routes and problems that are there. Big score for the RI community that this didn't get developed into houses! Jun 29, 2015
Has anyone ever climbed at the old rocky point amusement park area ? There's a massive amount of rocks to climb there. Its now open the public. Im amazed it hasn't made it to this site yet.
Jun 27, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
If anyone is local to Hope Valley, I found a boulder just into the woods between Rts 3 and 95. Go north on 3 out of town past the state police barracks and park fully off the road on the right a few hundred feet before you get to the entrance ramp for 95 South. Walk up the embankment and into the woods a little and it should be obvious. Unfortunately there probably isn't anything hard on it and you will wish it was a little bigger, but it has lots of holds and the rock is really good quality. It might be worth cleaning up for quick hits on a bunch of eliminates after work or school if you don't have the time to run all the way up to Arcadia. There is a little more rock closer to the highway. Warning, the cops drive by there all the time and if they see you will probably be wondering what you are doing. May 15, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  


..of course I am not suggesting anything May 15, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Thanks, Marc. I moved some of the old photos into the sub areas and routes you made. I would be nice to get some better ones. Oct 14, 2013
i added about 20+ problems today to the Buckeye Brook area which is out near Burlingame. I found and old notebook from 2001 when were were climbing out there a bunch and it had a hand drawn topo of the area with a bunch of the names and route info... Check it out and tell me what you think... we are going to get the pics updated and added were needed to make it a more complete section..
MT Oct 13, 2013
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
Bradley,

The only place I know of that fits that description is the limestone quarry off of RT 146 and Wilbur Road in Lincoln. It is an active quarry and you will probably get arrested. If you know of another place I'd love to hear about it.
Brian

>>bradley white
>>Jul 28, 2013

>I have heard about a quarry near Providence that people dive off of into the water from much height. The walls are supposed to be about seventy feet high.
Quarries have inherit blasted out rock loose rock risks, but if people are swimming an diving there, it seems reasonable climbers could send some routes. I'll get back about the name of the place and likely other quarries the rascalians visiting here, are probably trespassing. Aug 9, 2013
The rope is goldline.

Here are some photos of the Newport Quarry, circa 1975. In the 2nd photo I see both goldline and kernmantle rope.
Rock shoes: PAs
Harness: Whillans sit harness
Helmet: Joe Brown

Aug 4, 2013
bradley white   Bend
I have heard about a quarry near Providence that people dive off of into the water from much height. The walls are supposed to be about seventy feet high.
Quarries have inherit blasted out rock loose rock risks, but if people are swimming an diving there, it seems reasonable climbers could send some routes. I'll get back about the name of the place and likely other quarries the rascalians visiting here, are probably trespassing. Jul 28, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Fun history. Keep it coming. I would like to see more. By the way, what kind of rope is that? Did it come from the old Outdoorsman? I have heard stories of the guys there, later friends of them, selling static rope to the Smith brothers for leading when they were kids. It would have been about the same time. I suppose it didn't matter as much with a hip belay. Jul 23, 2013
Back in the early-to-mid 1970s we did a lot of climbing on Aquidneck Island. We were in high school.

Our favorite was a long scrambling traverse of the eastern sea cliffs from Black Point to Third Beach.

The quarry in Newport was another favorite. I'll see if I can find some photos from BITD.

There was also a small cliff in Portsmouth (the Hummocks) near the Tiverton Bridge. We used to rap and top rope there. Anyone know anything about this cliff?

We also poached some climbing along Hanging Rock near Newport. We did it in the winter because no one was around at that time of year. We did long girdle traverse of this 2,000-foot long formation.









Jul 22, 2013
joshuamason401
Troy, NY
joshuamason401   Troy, NY
Found a pretty decent boulder in Westerly. Have you guys experienced this thing, any routes up on it already? Jul 2, 2012
Jeremy Wall has done some climbing back there I think. I do not have much in the way of details. Get out there and bring back some beta. Apr 1, 2012
irujo  
Has anyone ever looked at the boulders near Cranston High School WEST? You can see a few of the smaller ones if you park on the corner of Phenix ave and Metropolitan Ave, in Cranston. Their seems to be a lot of potentail! Theres trails there so I don't think its private property.

If you follow the trails for about 10 minutes you will come across a few boulders 15+ feet. Let me know if anyone knows anything about this area or if your interested. =) Apr 1, 2012

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