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Elevation: 301 ft 92 m
GPS: 41.5738, -71.78538
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Dana Seaton on Sep 14, 2010 · Updates
Admins: M Sprague, Jamie Re, Joe M

Description Suggest change

A beautiful state park and management area surrounding Beach Pond, straddling the border of RI and CT, this area is a great spot to explore for new bouldering amongst the granite boulders and ledges hidden in the rhododendron forest. There is a top rope crag (now some easier bolted lines) at the southern end of the pond as well as several more further in the southern portion that would be good for beginners. With a bit of discrete cleaning there are enough cracks that one could work on gear placing skills locally if you don't mind short routes. Most of the recent interest has been by boulderers though, especially since the establishment of the test piece Work of Man at Deadwood.

Most of the good rock is on the southern side of the pond, though there is a small cluster of decent eggs and a little bouldering wall next to the northern boat ramp. Access is usually under 5-15 minutes hike from the car, though some of the newer finds in the southern spots may take 30+ minutes to get in to. The rock is granitic gneiss (I think), of good texture with occasional quartz bands with large crystals.

If you go exploring deeper into the park, with the maze of ridgelines, thick rhododendron, small swamps and extensive official, social and game trails it is very easy to get lost. Many of the trails are unblazed and the white blazed Deep Pond trail has several branches. I strongly suggest bringing a GPS mapping device though signal can get spotty when swhacking in the thick underbrush.

Getting There Suggest change

Head west on RI 165/Ten Rod Rd to Beach Pond, at the CT boarder. 

For the Hemlock ledges, Deadwood and other southern areas near the pond it is usually best to park back east up the hill a little from the pond at the new dirt hikers lot on the north side of the road. It will accommodate 10 cars and 1 handicap vehicle. It is best to leave the small dirt lot across from the main paved beach lot for fishermen during season.

 From the hiker's lot, walk up the asphalt lined drainage ditch to its end (east-away from the pond) and carefully cross rt.165 to enter a gated old dirt road that accesses what we have been referring to as the "upper trail" (Be really careful crossing rt. 165. it is a main thoroughfare and you are on a cresting hill) Be sure to stay to the left at forks initially or you will prematurely get drawn down to the pond.  In a few minutes you will pass by The New Beach, an obvious inviting bouldering ledge just off trail to the left. In another few minutes the trail crosses a seasonal stream (can be tricky during high water) and in another few more you will start to see Hemlock Ledge in front of you and the trail eventually meets up with the yellow blazed Tippecansett tr close to the main roped climbing. Deadwood  (bouldering and TR possibilities) is the left side of Hemlock Ledge from there.

The Beached Whale, Pirate Ship Wall and Normandy bouldering ledges are close by to the right of the trail  as you start to approach Hemlock, though they are invisible from the upper trail as they face the pond. You can either look for little social spurs that lead down to them or wait until you get to the main junction  and hook back sharply right (like you are taking the main pond side trail back to the road) You will see them up the hill above the trail.

Note there is no parking on the south side of the road at the fire gate, where the upper trail is accessed. It has been posted with no parking signs and people have been ticketed and towed, so be warned.

For some of the new areas further south from the pond, the signed Roscoe M. Dexter entrance a little further east on 165 will get you closer via the white blazed Deep Pond Tr. Hike down the dirt road and in about 10 minutes take the white blazed trail off to the left that heads south.  See further clarification in the individual areas.

Park at the northern boat launch for the North Shore (See directions under that section).

178 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Beach Pond

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2- 5+
 7
Pyramid Steam
Boulder
V2+ 5+
 7
Luau
Boulder
V2-3 5+
 5
Selfie Steam
Boulder
V3 6A
 11
Manhandled
Boulder
V3 6A
 18
Sherman Tank
Boulder
V3 6A R
 6
Mexican Standoff
Boulder
V3 6A
 5
One-Two Put on Your Shoes
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 14
Stowaway
Boulder
V4 6B
 34
Sniper Games
Boulder
V4 6B
 4
A Divine Wind
Boulder
V5+ 6C+
 9
Southern Cross
Boulder
V6+ 7A PG13
 4
The Treehouse
Boulder
V9 7C
 20
Supernormal
Boulder
V11 8A PG13
 8
Work of Man
Boulder
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 21
Toe or Throw
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pyramid Steam Valley of Kings… > Pyramid Boulder
 7
V2- 5+ Boulder
Luau New Beach
 7
V2+ 5+ Boulder
Selfie Steam Valley of Kings… > Pyramid Boulder
 5
V2-3 5+ Boulder
Manhandled Deadwood
 11
V3 6A Boulder
Sherman Tank Normandy
 18
V3 6A Boulder
Mexican Standoff Deep Woods Boulder
 6
V3 6A R Boulder
One-Two Put on Your Shoes New Beach
 5
V3 6A Boulder
Stowaway Pirate ship wall
 14
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Sniper Games Normandy
 34
V4 6B Boulder
A Divine Wind Deep Woods Boulder
 4
V4 6B Boulder
Southern Cross Deep Woods Boulder
 9
V5+ 6C+ Boulder
The Treehouse Deadwood
 4
V6+ 7A PG13 Boulder
Supernormal Deadwood
 20
V9 7C Boulder
Work of Man Deadwood
 8
V11 8A PG13 Boulder
Toe or Throw Hemlock Ledges
 21
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
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