|GPS:||41.574, -71.785 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||10,637 total · 116/month|
|Shared By:||Dana Seaton on Sep 14, 2010|
|Admins:||M Sprague, Joe M.|
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DescriptionA beautiful state park and management area surrounding Beach Pond, straddling the border of RI and CT, this area is a great spot to explore for new bouldering amongst the granite boulders and ledges hidden in the rhododendron forest. There is a top rope crag at the southern end of the pond as well as several more further in the southern portion that would be good for beginners. With a bit of discrete cleaning there are enough cracks that one could work on gear placing skills locally if you don't mind short routes. Most of the recent interest has been by boulderers though, especially since the establishment of the test piece Work of Man at Deadwood.
Most of the good rock is on the southern side of the pond, though there is a small cluster of decent eggs and a little bouldering wall next to the northern boat ramp. Access is usually under 5-15 minutes hike from the car, though some of the newer finds in the southern spots may take 30+ minutes to get in to. The rock is granitic gneiss (I think), of good texture with occasional quartz bands with large crystals.
If you go exploring deeper into the park, with the maze of ridgelines, thick rhododendron, small swamps and extensive official, social and game trails it is very easy to get lost. Many of the trails are unblazed and the white blazed Deep Pond trail has several branches. I strongly suggest bringing a GPS device and a good trail map
Getting ThereHead west on RI 165/Ten Rod Rd to the CT boarder. For the top rope crags, Deadwood and other southern areas near the pond park at the smaller lot on the southern side of the road just before you drive over the pond(41.5738, -71.7854), across from the main beach lot (not maintained well so careful if in a low clearance vehicle), or alternatively at the previous gated dirt road back east away from the pond a little bit (this will take you by a couple more bouldering ledges including the New Beach area) The trails from either spot join further in, near the back of the pond).
For some of the new areas further south from the pond, the signed Roscoe M. Dexter entrance a little further east on 165 will get you closer via the white blazed Deep Pond Tr. If you have decent ground clearance and driving skill you can usually drive in part way and save yourself ten minutes of hiking. See further clarification in the individual areas
Park at the northern boat launch for the North Shore (See directions under that section).
Classic Climbing Routes at Beach Pond
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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