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Elevation: 301 ft 92 m
GPS: 41.5738, -71.78538
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Dana Seaton on Sep 14, 2010 · Updates
Admins: M Sprague, Jamie Re, Joe M

Description Suggest change

A beautiful state park and management area surrounding Beach Pond, straddling the border of RI and CT, this area is a great spot to explore for new bouldering amongst the granite boulders and ledges hidden in the rhododendron forest. There is a top rope crag (now some easier bolted lines) at the southern end of the pond as well as several more further in the southern portion that would be good for beginners. With a bit of discrete cleaning there are enough cracks that one could work on gear placing skills locally if you don't mind short routes. Most of the recent interest has been by boulderers though, especially since the establishment of the test piece Work of Man at Deadwood.

Most of the good rock is on the southern side of the pond, though there is a small cluster of decent eggs and a little bouldering wall next to the northern boat ramp. Access is usually under 5-15 minutes hike from the car, though some of the newer finds in the southern spots may take 30+ minutes to get in to. The rock is granitic gneiss (I think), of good texture with occasional quartz bands with large crystals.

If you go exploring deeper into the park, with the maze of ridgelines, thick rhododendron, small swamps and extensive official, social and game trails it is very easy to get lost. Many of the trails are unblazed and the white blazed Deep Pond trail has several branches. I strongly suggest bringing a GPS mapping device though signal can get spotty when swhacking in the thick underbrush.

Getting There Suggest change

Head west on RI 165/Ten Rod Rd to the CT boarder. 

For the top rope crags, Deadwood and other southern areas near the pond we used to park at the smaller lot on the southern side of the road just before you drive over the pond(41.5738, -71.7854), (It's right across from the main beach lot) , but it is used by fishermen and is not maintained well for low clearance vehicles).  It runs you directly by some of the lesser bouldering closer to the pond but is less attractive for climbers since the new lot was made

Alternatively, park back east away from the pond a little bit at the new dirt lot on the north side of the road. It will accommodate 10 cars and 1 handicap vehicle. Walk up rt 165 a minute east and cross the road to enter a gated old dirt road that accesses what we have been referring to as the "upper trail" (be really careful crossing the 165, it is a main thoroughfare) This trail will take you by a couple more bouldering ledges including the New Beach area. Keep to the left at forks or you will prematurely get drawn back down to the pond. The trails from either parking spot join further in under Hemlock Ledges, near the back of the pond.

There is no parking on the south side of the road at the fire gate, where the upper trail is accessed. There are posted no parking signs and people have been ticketed and towed, so be warned . 

For some of the new areas further south from the pond, the signed Roscoe M. Dexter entrance a little further east on 165 will get you closer via the white blazed Deep Pond Tr. Hike down the dirt road and in about 10 minutes take the white blazed trail off to the left that heads south.  See further clarification in the individual areas.

Park at the northern boat launch for the North Shore (See directions under that section).

178 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Beach Pond

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2- 5+
 6
Pyramid Steam
Boulder
V2+ 5+
 4
Selfie Steam
Boulder
V2+ 5+
 7
Luau
Boulder
V3 6A
 11
Manhandled
Boulder
V3 6A
 17
Sherman Tank
Boulder
V3 6A R
 6
Mexican Standoff
Boulder
V3 6A
 4
One-Two Put on Your Shoes
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 14
Stowaway
Boulder
V4 6B
 32
Sniper Games
Boulder
V4 6B
 4
A Divine Wind
Boulder
V5 6C
 5
Sherman Games
Boulder
V5+ 6C+
 9
Southern Cross
Boulder
V6+ 7A PG13
 4
The Treehouse
Boulder
V9 7C
 20
Supernormal
Boulder
V11 8A PG13
 8
Work of Man
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pyramid Steam Valley of Kings… > Pyramid Boulder
 6
V2- 5+ Boulder
Selfie Steam Valley of Kings… > Pyramid Boulder
 4
V2+ 5+ Boulder
Luau New Beach
 7
V2+ 5+ Boulder
Manhandled Deadwood
 11
V3 6A Boulder
Sherman Tank Normandy
 17
V3 6A Boulder
Mexican Standoff Deep Woods Boulder
 6
V3 6A R Boulder
One-Two Put on Your Shoes New Beach
 4
V3 6A Boulder
Stowaway Pirate ship wall
 14
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Sniper Games Normandy
 32
V4 6B Boulder
A Divine Wind Deep Woods Boulder
 4
V4 6B Boulder
Sherman Games Normandy
 5
V5 6C Boulder
Southern Cross Deep Woods Boulder
 9
V5+ 6C+ Boulder
The Treehouse Deadwood
 4
V6+ 7A PG13 Boulder
Supernormal Deadwood
 20
V9 7C Boulder
Work of Man Deadwood
 8
V11 8A PG13 Boulder
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