Elevation: 301 ft
GPS: 41.574, -71.785 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 46,945 total · 386/month
Shared By: Dana Seaton on Sep 14, 2010 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

Description

A beautiful state park and management area surrounding Beach Pond, straddling the border of RI and CT, this area is a great spot to explore for new bouldering amongst the granite boulders and ledges hidden in the rhododendron forest. There is a top rope crag (now some easy bolted lines) at the southern end of the pond as well as several more further in the southern portion that would be good for beginners. With a bit of discrete cleaning there are enough cracks that one could work on gear placing skills locally if you don't mind short routes. Most of the recent interest has been by boulderers though, especially since the establishment of the test piece Work of Man at Deadwood.

Most of the good rock is on the southern side of the pond, though there is a small cluster of decent eggs and a little bouldering wall next to the northern boat ramp. Access is usually under 5-15 minutes hike from the car, though some of the newer finds in the southern spots may take 30+ minutes to get in to. The rock is granitic gneiss (I think), of good texture with occasional quartz bands with large crystals.

If you go exploring deeper into the park, with the maze of ridgelines, thick rhododendron, small swamps and extensive official, social and game trails it is very easy to get lost. Many of the trails are unblazed and the white blazed Deep Pond trail has several branches. I strongly suggest bringing a GPS device and a good trail map

Getting There

Head west on RI 165/Ten Rod Rd to the CT boarder. For the top rope crags, Deadwood and other southern areas near the pond park at the smaller lot on the southern side of the road just before you drive over the pond(41.5738, -71.7854), across from the main beach lot (not maintained well so careful if in a low clearance vehicle), or alternatively at the previous gated dirt road back east away from the pond a little bit for what we have been referring to as the "upper trail" (this will take you by a couple more bouldering ledges including the New Beach area) The trails from either spot join further in, near the back of the pond.

For some of the new areas further south from the pond, the signed Roscoe M. Dexter entrance a little further east on 165 will get you closer via the white blazed Deep Pond Tr. Hike down the dirt road and in about 10 minutes take the white blazed trail off to the left that heads south.  See further clarification in the individual areas.

Park at the northern boat launch for the North Shore (See directions under that section).

130 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Beach Pond

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0+ 4+
 4
Dirty Laundering
Boulder
V1 5
 6
Swipe Right
Boulder
V2- 5+
 5
Pyramid Steam
Boulder
V2+ 5+
 3
Selfie Steam
Boulder
V3 6A
 5
Manhandled
Boulder
V3 6A
 13
Sherman Tank
Boulder
V3 6A
 4
Tomb Raider
Boulder
V3 6A R
 3
Mexican Standoff
Boulder
V4- 6B
 9
Stowaway
Boulder
V4 6B
 21
Sniper Games
Boulder
V5+ 6C+
 3
Southern Cross
Boulder
V8 7B R
 4
Belly of the Beast
Boulder
V9 7C
 12
Supernormal
Boulder
V12- 8A+ PG13
 6
Work of Man
Boulder
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Toe or Throw
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dirty Laundering Valley of Kings… > Pyramid Boulder
 4
V0+ 4+ Boulder
Swipe Right Tinder Boulder
 6
V1 5 Boulder
Pyramid Steam Valley of Kings… > Pyramid Boulder
 5
V2- 5+ Boulder
Selfie Steam Valley of Kings… > Pyramid Boulder
 3
V2+ 5+ Boulder
Manhandled Deadwood
 5
V3 6A Boulder
Sherman Tank Normandy
 13
V3 6A Boulder
Tomb Raider Valley of Kings… > Pyramid Boulder
 4
V3 6A Boulder
Mexican Standoff Deep Woods Boulder
 3
V3 6A R Boulder
Stowaway Pirate ship wall
 9
V4- 6B Boulder
Sniper Games Normandy
 21
V4 6B Boulder
Southern Cross Deep Woods Boulder
 3
V5+ 6C+ Boulder
Belly of the Beast Deadwood
 4
V8 7B R Boulder
Supernormal Deadwood
 12
V9 7C Boulder
Work of Man Deadwood
 6
V12- 8A+ PG13 Boulder
Toe or Throw Hemlock Ledges
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
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