Elevation: 355 ft
GPS: 41.569, -71.777 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 7,208 total · 56/month
Shared By: Dana Seaton on Sep 14, 2010
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.
Access Issue: The Covid pandemic is still ongoing. Please take your social distancing, mask wearing, hand washing and travel restrictions seriously. Details

Description

Hemlock Ledges is a ledge system about 1/4 mile wide, to the south of Beach Pond. The tallest portion, the right side, is about 45 feet tall and off vertical. Historically this has been a place for people to set up some easy top ropes, though  Brian Phillips'  old trad leads have recently  been retrobolted so there are a few rare for RI bolted lead climbs. Bolts, if they are OK there, should probably not proliferate too much and be well camouflaged as the area is very popular with other users, but the handful of moderate sport climbs on good quality rock are a welcome addition to RI climbing. For further info see http://www.climbri.org/beach.htm

Moving left there is a cave like formation that you see up the hill as you first approach the crag. It is named the Hand of Man Cave for the silhouetted hands painted on the wall. This general area and to the left has had some recent development by boulderers and as such is described in the Deadwood Area.

Continuing left, with occasional breaks are more walls, mostly about 25" tall. There are more good short TR/solo/highball possibilities. Most are pretty easy and could use some cleaning. The rock tends to be very featured with good juggy holds. It is a little steeper over here so, though shorter than the right side, the lines can be good. It is possible to do some trad leading here if you want to practice your placements and don't mind the shortness. There are lots of trees up top for anchors and a couple bolted ones with chain so you only need a couple lockers (take care getting to them to set up. If scrubbed up, there could be some really long bouldering traverses, especially towards the left side.

Getting There

Follow the yellow dot trail south from the smaller lot across from the beach parking area. It is up on the left, at the southern tip of Beach Pond, about 10 minutes in.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hemlock Ledges

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 5
Smiley
Sport, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 7
Sand Bag
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Muscle Beach
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Topless Beach
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Son of a Beach
Sport, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
Beach Blanket Bingo
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Oh Mandy
Sport, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Toe or Throw
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Smiley
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport, TR
Sand Bag
 7
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport, TR
Muscle Beach
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Topless Beach
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Son of a Beach
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Beach Blanket Bingo
 6
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Oh Mandy
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Toe or Throw
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
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