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Elevation: 355 ft 108 m
GPS: 41.56924, -71.77669
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Dana Seaton on Sep 14, 2010 · Updates
Admins: M Sprague, Jamie Re, Joe M

Description Suggest change

Hemlock Ledges is a ledge system about 1/4 mile wide, to the south of Beach Pond. The tallest portion, the right side, is about 45 feet tall and off vertical. Brian Phillips' retroed his old trad leads recently, and a few new ones have been added, so there are a few rare for RI bolted lead climbs.  For further info see http://www.climbri.org/beach.htm

Moving left there is a cave like formation that you see up the hill as you first approach the crag. It is named the Hand of Man Cave for the silhouetted hands painted on the wall. This part of the ledge and to the left  we have called  Deadwood to designate it as a bouldering and top rope area.

Continuing left from the cave, with occasional breaks, the ledge is mostly about 25" tall or less. The TRs are mostly off trees, so bring slingage or a short bit of rope to build anchors, though there are a couple  of SS glue-in  anchors with short chains at the top  of the tallest portion just before you get to the highball arete of Treehouse  that only require a couple biners (Just be careful scrambling to them, preferably tied off to a tree while doing so) If scrubbed up, there could be some really long bouldering traverses, especially towards the left side. If highballing be aware that the area has for the most part not been extensively cleaned  and the rock is often weakened by moisture and holds blow off. That being said, the rock can be really nice, with interesting holds.

Getting There Suggest change

old way, avoid during fishing season: Follow the yellow dot trail south from the smaller lot across from the paved beach parking area. It is up on the left, at the southern tip of Beach Pond, about 10 minutes in.

Alternatively, and getting to be the preferred way in, is to park at the new hiker's dirt lot up the hill from the pond on the north side of Rt 165. Walk up the asphalt drainage(east) along the road away from the pond to its end and cross 165 and head down the gated old dirt road. Keep to the left at trail splits, crossing a stream and the trail meets up with  yellow dot trail at the back of the pond, below the ledges .

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hemlock Ledges

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 20
Sand Bag
Sport, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 18
Smiley
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 18
Muscle Beach
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
Topless Beach
Sport, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Son of a Beach
Sport, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 10
Beach Blanket Bingo
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
One Holer
Sport, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
Oh Mandy
Sport, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Shelby's Off Ramp
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 21
Toe or Throw
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sand Bag
 20
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport, TR
Smiley
 18
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport, TR
Muscle Beach
 18
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Topless Beach
 20
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Son of a Beach
 10
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Beach Blanket Bingo
 10
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport, TR
One Holer
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Oh Mandy
 14
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Shelby's Off Ramp
 8
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Toe or Throw
 21
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Hemlock Ledges »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Routes Mostly Face: West · Northwest

Mostly Shady All Day

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