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Routes in Heart Boulder

A Single Blade V4 6B
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Heart, The V0 4
Scoop SDS, The V9 7C
Scoop, The V6 7A
Shattered V9 7C
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Wishful Thinking V1 5
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Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: standing start- Ed Sewall, late '80s
Page Views: 5,030 total · 50/month
Shared By: tscupp on Apr 13, 2010
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

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Description

This problem is fantastic, I have a hard time not throwing the pad down and getting on it every time I see it. Be warned though, in the summer it feels nearly impossible.

Start with left hand on a sidepull rail and right hand on a sloper around the arete. Put your left foot on a very small/slippery hold and heel hook the arete with your right. Slap your way up the arete to the tough match and top out. Some people start with the right hand on a high pinch too, but I find it easier and more fun to start on the low sloper.

V8 from the sit starting on a low crimp and sloper.

Location

You can see the backside of the arete from the road but it is basically on the side opposite of the road. It faces the swamp.

Protection

1 pad is fine, 2nd pad is nice if you come off up high.

Photos

Jay Z  
the foothold for the start has since broke...there's still a nub on either side of where the foot hold was but the one good part of the foot broke off.... it still goes....just a tad more balance now Apr 28, 2011
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
FA standing start- Ed Sewall, late '80s, not sure of the sit FA Jan 22, 2012
Sean Kurnas
  V4
Sean Kurnas  
  V4
v4? Sure why not... I think that the nubs Jay Z mentioned have crumbled/polished into even worse footholds since I was last here, but I could be wrong. In any case, I think there are better options for the starting foot.

As promised, a shout out to mystery Dave for the chalk, he led the day in assists. May 27, 2013
Joe M.    
#4 on the beta topo Feb 3, 2016
Mitchell Romanat
Providence, RI
 
Mitchell Romanat   Providence, RI
 
The footholds are garbage and the first move is heinous. Be prepared to use your knees for the topout. Apr 1, 2018

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