Type: Boulder
FA: Ryan Durocher, mid '90s
Page Views: 4,873 total · 45/month
Shared By: Jake D. on Feb 3, 2010
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

You & This Route

63 Opinions

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Start sitting with left hand on good crimp, right hand in or around the crack. Move up on crimps and incuts to a small pinch. Dyno/deadpoint out right to the jug. Top out up and left.


Starts at the crack in the middle/right of the front face.


Pads.. 3-4 is nice and a spotter


M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
FA - Ryan Durocher, mid '90s Feb 12, 2012
S. Neoh  
This is a really good problem. I was never able to link it though.
I had not realize Ryan had the FA. Really strong kid BITD. Feb 12, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
That was according to Paul Baird's notes. Maybe Joe can confirm it. Feb 13, 2012
Joe M.

Joe M.    
It was either Ryan or Pete. I think Pete picked out the line and Ryan sent it (which was what usually happened). Feb 13, 2012
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
i thought this was done much earlier ? Feb 13, 2012
S. Neoh  
I would have thought so too since it is kind of an obvious line. I will shoot Whitey an e-mail to see if he has an opinion. I might not hear back form him until after his road trip though (Cochise, lucky guy!). Feb 13, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
While you are at it, tell him I need him to come down to Mt. Tom when he gets a chance, and retell me about the old routes so they can get recorded. Feb 14, 2012
Hated this route for 3 years, after finally getting it I think its one of the best problems at the woods! May 1, 2013
Kim Parretti
Worcester, MA
Kim Parretti   Worcester, MA
What holds are "off" on this climb? Oct 9, 2017
Others may have more to add but here a Loadies zen roadmap as I understand it.

1. From the sit do not trend right up the slippery crack/rail.

2. The large shelf to the right pictures above is off for hands and heels.

3. Some may say you must do the large right hand move off the left pinch/sidepull, meaning all the small intemiediates in between are off, but many shorter climbers use these instead of the dyno so who knows.

4. Even though it’s easier to escape right up the ramp loadies tops out up and left above the try again face.

Use whatever holds make you happy. I won’t be writing any tickets for not using the “right” holds. Oct 11, 2017