The De Coppet Estate Climbing

This is a little local area that has recently been transferred from a trust to the state DEM in 2014, so it is now formally open to the public. There are three main areas: along Old Mountain Rd, Hillsdale Rd (in back of the old DeCoppet summer residence), and a third, mostly still undeveloped, scattered area off Carolina Nooseneck Rd running toward Bailey Pond. None of the areas are very extensive in their own, but taken together there is a pretty good collection for a little local area, worth some visits if you don't have to drive too far. Most of the routes are in the easy to moderate grades, but some good circuits can be done. There is one possibly double digit project (Schism) . The group off Hillsdale is probably the most extensive (especially with a little more development) and with the best parking.

There is further scattered bouldering nearby to the north, outside the DeCoppet Estate proper, in the Beaver River Nature Preserve. Parking is at the residential cul-de-sac at the end of Oak Hill Dr. Explore the loop trail.  I think Marc Troob and Mike Galoob did most of the initial development.

To date the DEM is still working on a management plan for the area so please don't do anything that would call unwanted attention to climbers. Clean up after yourself (chalk etc) and keeping the noise down, especially at Old Mountain Rd where there are nearby residences. Things to note to be good neighbors - Parking is somewhat limited, usually just small pull-offs with room for a car or two, so carpool if coming as a bigger group if you can (The Richmond Town Hall on Rt 138 is a good place to leave a car, or the corner of Rts 3 & 165 if coming from the north) and get well off the road and don't block the gates. Equestrians sometimes use the dirt roads and the pasture around the summer house to train, so be considerate about avoiding spooking the horses with your pads.

The boulders are South County granite with a lot of interesting features. There are a couple up to ~20 ft tall, though most are on the short side. Even the shorter boulders often have surprisingly fun lines because of the quality of the holds. There are still fresh FAs to do, so bring your brushes and poke around, (though be aware of your visible impact - see note below)