|GPS:||41.522, -71.643 Google Map · Climbing Map|
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|Shared By:||M Sprague on Jun 24, 2016|
|Admins:||M Sprague, Joe M.|
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DescriptionThis is a little local area that has recently been transferred from a trust to the state DEM in 2014, so it is now formally open to the public. There are three main areas: along Old Mountain Rd, Hillsdale Rd (in back of the old DeCoppet summer residence), and a third, mostly still undeveloped, scattered area off of Carolina Nooseneck Rd running toward Bailey Pond. None of the areas are very extensive in their own, but taken together there is a pretty good collection for a local area, worth some visits if you don't have to drive too far. Most of the routes are in the easy to moderate grades, but some good circuits can be done. There is one possibly double digit project (Schism) . The group off Hillsdale is probably the most extensive (especially with a little more development) and with the best parking.
The DEM is still working on a management plan for the area so please don't do anything that would call unwanted attention to climbers. Clean up after yourself (chalk etc) and keeping the noise down, especially at Old Mountain Rd where there are nearby residences. Things to note to be good neighbors - Parking is somewhat limited, usually just small pull-offs with room for a car or two, so carpool if coming as a bigger group if you can (The Richmond Town Hall on Rt 138 is a good place to leave a car, or the corner of Rts 3 & 165 if coming from the north) and get well off the road and don't block the gates. Equestrians sometimes use the dirt roads and the pasture around the summer house to train, so be considerate about avoiding spooking them with your pads.
The boulders are South County granite with a lot of interesting features. There are a couple up to ~20 ft tall, though most are on the short side. Even the shorter boulders often have surprisingly fun lines because of the quality of the holds. There are still fresh FAs to do, so bring your brushes and poke around.
Getting ThereFrom I 95 take exit 3a at Hope Valley to get on Rt 138 East (towards URI) In a couple miles Richmond Elementary School will be on your left. Carolina Nooseneck Rd is the left directly after the school and Old Mountain Rd is the first right off of that. Hillsdale Rd is the next left off of Rt 138 after Nooseneck, maybe 1/2 mile after the school. See directions for the sub areas for parking.
Classic Climbing Routes at The De Coppet Estate
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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