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Areas in Lincoln Woods

Alcove, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Ball Buster 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Bear Hug Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Best Kept Secret 0 / 0 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Beyond Summit Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Buddy Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Busy Child Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Cloud's Rest Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Coke Bottle Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Dam Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Egg, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Font Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Fred Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Goat Rock 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Great Slab / Wave Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Green Drool 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Heart Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Hidden Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Horse Cave 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Improbable Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Lake Side Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Little Tomato 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Lodi's Warmup 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Lost Crag Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Lower Heart 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Northwest Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Parking Lot Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Peace Dove Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Poison Ivy Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Pond Cave Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 47 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 47
Quarry Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Roadside Attraction 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Ship's Prow 0 / 0 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Sit Down area / Druid's Circle 0 / 0 / 0 / 49 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 49
Slick 50 and Whale Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Suicide Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Summit / Pinnacle Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 23 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Super Crack 2 Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 32 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32
Super Crack I Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Tomato Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Tombstone, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Triangle Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Try Again Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Tuolumne Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Upper Try Again 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Warm Up Area aka The Tomato Overhangs / Mack'sTraverse 0 / 0 / 0 / 50 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 50
Yosemite Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19

Description

High quality bouldering on sharply-textured granite awaits urban adventurers in Lincoln Woods State Park, a few miles north of Providence, R.I. It is entirely fitting that Little Rhody's best climbing is on the small stones. Biking and walking trails link clusters of boulders, set among picnic areas and ponds. The climbing season extends deep into winter here, when sunny days in the 20s and 30s invite beanie-headed pebble wrestlers to enjoy killer friction with handwarmers simmering in chalkbags and wool socks stuffed in pockets. An excellent guidebook is complemented by beta on Newenglandbouldering.com.

Getting There

From Rt. 146, the Twin River Road exit gains a park entrance by turning east (left)at the end of the ramp. Once in the park, find roadside parking near the T intersection and follow the road left from the T through a gate. Follow the road right, between ponds, to the warm-up area (visable up hill on left). Park access is available from other entrances, too. Alternatively, if the gates are open, you can take a right after entering the park and drive all the way around the pond to get closer to to some of the bouldering.

576 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lincoln Woods

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 85
Cave Warm Up
Boulder
V2 5+
 129
The Wave
Boulder
V2+ 5+
 94
Mack's Traverse
Boulder
V3 6A
 71
Peace Dove
Boulder
V3 6A
 64
Cave Roof
Boulder
V3 6A
 95
The Quiet Buddhist
Boulder
V3 6A
 53
Static Heart
Boulder
V4- 6B
 113
Neil's Lunge
Boulder
V4 6B
 107
Iron Cross
Boulder
V4 6B
 53
Heart of Glass
Boulder
V4 6B
 85
The Pond Cave Traverse
Boulder
V5 6C
 68
Try Again
Boulder
V5 6C
 36
The Executioner
Boulder
V5 6C
 58
Sit Down Traverse
Boulder
V6+ 7A
 52
Loadies Zen
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cave Warm Up Warm Up Area ak… > Warm Up Cave
 85
V0 4 Boulder
The Wave Great Slab / Wave Bou…
 129
V2 5+ Boulder
Mack's Traverse Warm Up Area ak… > Mack's traverse
 94
V2+ 5+ Boulder
Peace Dove Peace Dove Area > Peace Dove Boulder
 71
V3 6A Boulder
Cave Roof Warm Up Area ak… > Warm Up Cave
 64
V3 6A Boulder
The Quiet Buddhist Pond Cave Area > Pond Cave
 95
V3 6A Boulder
Static Heart Lower Heart
 53
V3 6A Boulder
Neil's Lunge Warm Up Area ak… > Warm Up Cave
 113
V4- 6B Boulder
Iron Cross Warm Up Area ak… > Iron Cross Boulder
 107
V4 6B Boulder
Heart of Glass Heart Boulder
 53
V4 6B Boulder
The Pond Cave Traverse Pond Cave Area > Pond Cave
 85
V4 6B Boulder
Try Again Try Again Boulder
 68
V5 6C Boulder
The Executioner Tombstone
 36
V5 6C Boulder
Sit Down Traverse Sit Down area /… > Split Rock
 58
V5 6C Boulder
Loadies Zen Try Again Boulder
 52
V6+ 7A Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Lincoln Woods »

Weather Averages

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Photos

Ladd    
This area is filled with many quality problems.
However, the frequency with which I encountered eliminates and variations on obvious lines was a bit of a bummer. Apr 13, 2007
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
An excellent area.Lots of fun problems, especially in th V2-V5 range and boulders are everywhere. Jul 1, 2008
Joe M.    
Ladd, not being a jerk, just curious as to why eliminates and variatons bummed you out? you should be psyched that people are so motivated to climb that they will climb any and all variations. i have travelled all over the U.S. and have never found a more climbable rock than lincoln woods. holds everywhere, so the locals take adavantage of that and climb anything and everything. if you only want to climb the pure lines, go ahead, but i don't see where there is any negative in having more problems to climb. too me, more problems equals more fun! maybe it's just me...

now, if you said the grafitti or the sketchy people on the loop road bummed you out, i could understand that... Apr 10, 2009
The original site is still down, but you can still get the information using the Internet Archive Wayback Machine replay.waybackmachine.org/l…

It might not be the latest info though if the site was being updated over the last two years or so. Apr 15, 2011
Raff  
vimeo.com/61816316
vimeo.com/60926074

Check out these videos that we made on some area classics!

Like the vids? Make sure to follow us at Less Than Sponsored for videos and more:
facebook.com/pages/Less-Tha… Apr 2, 2013
Joe M.    
There is a new parking lot near Try Again:

New Lincoln Woods Parking Lot Apr 16, 2014
Matt Bergeron
Nantucket, MA
Matt Bergeron   Nantucket, MA
hey guys, i was wondering as i'm new to the lincoln woods area what this boulder problem is, thanks! there was chalk marks so i decided to give it a try. it's on the back side of the other boulder next to the Peace Dove youtu.be/miDR234b7zo Jun 1, 2014
Joe M.    
That is Sunnyside Left a V1 on the Jesus Loves you boulder: mountainproject.com/v/sunny… Jun 2, 2014
Matt Bergeron
Nantucket, MA
Matt Bergeron   Nantucket, MA
thanks, bud. realized there was an app and I was searching through it last night and found it. Jun 2, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
People have been bouldering at LW since at least the 1930s. It is mentioned in the November 1935 edition of Appalachia. Jan 28, 2016
Any one know about a what appears to be a mudslide that opened up a large cave by the lost crag ?? Mar 31, 2016
Mar 31, 2016

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