Elevation: 219 ft
GPS: 41.898, -71.434 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 263,312 total · 1,820/month
Shared By: jeremyadams on Jan 27, 2007 with updates from Byron Igoe and 1 other
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

Description

High quality bouldering on sharply-textured granite awaits urban adventurers in Lincoln Woods State Park, a few miles north of Providence, R.I. It is entirely fitting that Little Rhody's best climbing is on the small stones. Biking and walking trails link clusters of boulders, set among picnic areas and ponds. The climbing season extends deep into winter here, when sunny days in the 20s and 30s invite beanie-headed pebble wrestlers to enjoy killer friction with handwarmers simmering in chalkbags and wool socks stuffed in pockets. An excellent guidebook is complemented by beta on Newenglandbouldering.com.

Getting There

From Rt. 146, the Twin River Road exit gains a park entrance by turning east (left)at the end of the ramp. Once in the park, find roadside parking near the T intersection and follow the road left from the T through a gate. Follow the road right, between ponds, to the warm-up area (visable up hill on left). Park access is available from other entrances, too. Alternatively, if the gates are open, you can take a right after entering the park and drive all the way around the pond to get closer to to some of the bouldering.

581 Total Climbs

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Location: Lincoln Woods Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lincoln Woods

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 92
● Cave Warm Up
Boulder
Warm Up Area ak… > Warm Up Cave
V2 5+
 140
● The Wave
Boulder
Great Slab / Wave Bou…
V2+ 5+
 102
● Mack's Traverse
Boulder
Warm Up Area ak… > Mack's traverse
V3 6A
 80
● Peace Dove
Boulder
Peace Dove Area > Peace Dove Boulder
V3 6A
 72
● Cave Roof
Boulder
Warm Up Area ak… > Warm Up Cave
V3 6A
 105
● The Quiet Buddhist
Boulder
Pond Cave Area > Pond Cave
V3 6A
 60
● Static Heart
Boulder
Lower Heart
V4- 6B
 123
● Neil's Lunge
Boulder
Warm Up Area ak… > Warm Up Cave
V4 6B
 116
● Iron Cross
Boulder
Warm Up Area ak… > Iron Cross Boulder
V4 6B
 56
● Heart of Glass
Boulder
Heart Boulder
V4 6B
 91
● The Pond Cave Traverse
Boulder
Pond Cave Area > Pond Cave
V5 6C
 75
● Try Again
Boulder
Try Again Boulder
V5 6C
 45
● The Executioner
Boulder
Tombstone
V5 6C
 62
● Sit Down Traverse
Boulder
Sit Down area /… > Split Rock
V6+ 7A
 62
● Loadies Zen
Boulder
Try Again Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Cave Warm Up Warm Up Area ak… > Warm Up Cave
 92
V0 4 Boulder
● The Wave Great Slab / Wave Bou…
 140
V2 5+ Boulder
● Mack's Traverse Warm Up Area ak… > Mack's traverse
 102
V2+ 5+ Boulder
● Peace Dove Peace Dove Area > Peace Dove Boulder
 80
V3 6A Boulder
● Cave Roof Warm Up Area ak… > Warm Up Cave
 72
V3 6A Boulder
● The Quiet Buddhist Pond Cave Area > Pond Cave
 105
V3 6A Boulder
● Static Heart Lower Heart
 60
V3 6A Boulder
● Neil's Lunge Warm Up Area ak… > Warm Up Cave
 123
V4- 6B Boulder
● Iron Cross Warm Up Area ak… > Iron Cross Boulder
 116
V4 6B Boulder
● Heart of Glass Heart Boulder
 56
V4 6B Boulder
● The Pond Cave Traverse Pond Cave Area > Pond Cave
 91
V4 6B Boulder
● Try Again Try Again Boulder
 75
V5 6C Boulder
● The Executioner Tombstone
 45
V5 6C Boulder
● Sit Down Traverse Sit Down area /… > Split Rock
 62
V5 6C Boulder
● Loadies Zen Try Again Boulder
 62
V6+ 7A Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Lincoln Woods »

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Photos

Lincoln Woods Detailed - submitted by Conor Phalen
Lincoln Woods Detailed - submitted by Conor Phalen
 1
Petes problem.
Petes problem.
 4
Buddy I love you boulder?.. fun little problem on slopers and a nasty crimp. Between the road and Ships Prow boulder, anyone have more info?
Buddy I love you boulder?.. fun little problem…
 1
Map of the woods.
Map of the woods.
 0
map from the RIparks website.
map from the RIparks website.
 0
Lincoln classic
Lincoln classic
 0
Spotted by Cory and Jake, with photo by Nelson, I work my way up Neil's Lunge.
Spotted by Cory and Jake, with photo by Nelson,…
 0

14 Comments

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Newest Oldest Best Beta
Ladd

Ladd    
This area is filled with many quality problems.
However, the frequency with which I encountered eliminates and variations on obvious lines was a bit of a bummer. Apr 13, 2007
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
An excellent area.Lots of fun problems, especially in th V2-V5 range and boulders are everywhere. Jul 1, 2008
Joe M.

Joe M.    
Ladd, not being a jerk, just curious as to why eliminates and variatons bummed you out? you should be psyched that people are so motivated to climb that they will climb any and all variations. i have travelled all over the U.S. and have never found a more climbable rock than lincoln woods. holds everywhere, so the locals take adavantage of that and climb anything and everything. if you only want to climb the pure lines, go ahead, but i don't see where there is any negative in having more problems to climb. too me, more problems equals more fun! maybe it's just me...

now, if you said the grafitti or the sketchy people on the loop road bummed you out, i could understand that... Apr 10, 2009
Oliver Chong
Oliver Chong  
The original site is still down, but you can still get the information using the Internet Archive Wayback Machine replay.waybackmachine.org/l…

It might not be the latest info though if the site was being updated over the last two years or so. Apr 15, 2011
Raff
Raff  
vimeo.com/61816316
vimeo.com/60926074

Check out these videos that we made on some area classics!

Like the vids? Make sure to follow us at Less Than Sponsored for videos and more:
facebook.com/pages/Less-Tha… Apr 2, 2013
Joe M.

Joe M.    
There is a new parking lot near Try Again:

New Lincoln Woods Parking Lot Apr 16, 2014
Matt Bergeron
Nantucket, MA
Matt Bergeron   Nantucket, MA
hey guys, i was wondering as i'm new to the lincoln woods area what this boulder problem is, thanks! there was chalk marks so i decided to give it a try. it's on the back side of the other boulder next to the Peace Dove youtu.be/miDR234b7zo Jun 1, 2014
Joe M.

Joe M.    
That is Sunnyside Left a V1 on the Jesus Loves you boulder: mountainproject.com/v/sunny… Jun 2, 2014
Matt Bergeron
Nantucket, MA
Matt Bergeron   Nantucket, MA
thanks, bud. realized there was an app and I was searching through it last night and found it. Jun 2, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
People have been bouldering at LW since at least the 1930s. It is mentioned in the November 1935 edition of Appalachia. Jan 28, 2016
Nickgrai
Nickgrai  
Any one know about a what appears to be a mudslide that opened up a large cave by the lost crag ?? Mar 31, 2016
Nickgrai
Nickgrai  
Ruff picture..
Mar 31, 2016
William Flores
Woonsocket, Rhode Island
William Flores   Woonsocket, Rhode Island
Anyone know the boulder that’s directly off the path that leads to Goat Rock, if you were facing Goat Rock it would be to the right of the path, it’s not too tall maybe 8-10ish ft or so slightly over hanging, landing looks like there was a swamp with really dark leaves and twigs. A chalked up line dead center with holds that seem like you have to Gaston and side pull. *****update***** found it, it’s the climb called Sewing Up Avenues With Power Moves. Looks rad! Jun 26, 2018
Ariela Blahriela
Ariela Blahriela  
Found a wedding-band style ring today by the warmup boulders. Contact me if it yours (knight.ariela@gmail.com) and I can work out a way to get it back to you. Nov 24, 2018 · Lost & Found