Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Ed Sewall, mid '80s
Page Views: 5,942 total · 49/month
Shared By: tscupp on Jul 20, 2010
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

You & This Route


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Access Issue: As of May 9th the temporary closing due to covid-19 of Lincoln Woods and some Rhode Island state parks has been lifted. There currently is reduced parking to keep the visitor numbers down and an earlier closing time of 6 pm. Visit riparks.com/ for more information Details

Description

V4 might be the best grade to climb at Lincoln Woods and this one is a contender for the top. Start sitting at jug where the two walls meet and then follow the crack up and right. Top out when the jugs end when the crack turns the arete.

The crux comes in the first few moves and with the option of using feet on the opposing wall to make the climb easier (probably v3+/v4-). This option may seem contrived but the cruxes climb differently with one being more subtle and core dependent while the other forces longer moves between the better holds.

Location

Deepest point of the cave at an obvious jug, the heavily chalked right trending crack.

Protection

Multiple pads and spotter are best but the hardest moves are right near the beginning with an easy but not necessarily obvious top out.

Photos