Description

From moderate, sunny cruisers to huge mixed gullies and everything in between, the Grand Teton has it all. This iconic mountain is steeped in history.
Although trade classics like the Owen-Spalding and the Exum Ridge can be a cattle train at times, there are plenty of routes to keep everyone satisfied.

Getting There

Most approaches will start from the Lupine Meadows trailhead and take the trail into Garnet Canyon, eventually reaching the Lower Saddle. Some routes utilize different approaches and will be noted in the proper route descriptions.

30 Total Climbs

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Location: Grand Teton Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Grand Teton

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI2-3 Mod. Snow
 14
Ford - Stettner Couloir (Ski Des…
Ice, Snow, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 304
Owen Spalding
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 594
Upper Exum Ridge
Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 72
Direct Petzoldt Ridge
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 251
Lower Exum Ridge
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 19
Wittich Crack
Trad, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
East Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
North Face Highlight Tour
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
North Face Standard
Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 37
North Ridge
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 50
The Grand Traverse
Trad, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 16
Pownall-Gilkey
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Beyer East Face I
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 25
Gold Face
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Bean's Shining Wall of Storms
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ford - Stettner Couloir (Sk…
 14
WI2-3 Mod. Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine
Owen Spalding
 304
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Upper Exum Ridge
 594
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
Direct Petzoldt Ridge
 72
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Lower Exum Ridge
 251
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Wittich Crack
 19
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine
East Ridge
 20
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine
North Face Highlight Tour
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
North Face Standard
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
North Ridge
 37
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
The Grand Traverse
 50
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
Pownall-Gilkey
 16
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Beyer East Face I
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Gold Face
 25
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Bean's Shining Wall of Storms
 4
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Grand Teton »

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Photos

claytown
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
Tons of beta pictures at this link for the OS and the Exum.

wyomingwhiskey.blogspot.com/ (updated to working url in 2018) Jul 14, 2013
Gummy
Akron, OH
Gummy   Akron, OH
What is the best path to access Golden Pillar Direct North Face? It is on the Tetons North Face. Apr 11, 2017
Kirkwood Donavin
Salt Lake City, UT
Kirkwood Donavin   Salt Lake City, UT
I was told by some fellow climber that there was a bolted route up the Grand. Were they wrong, or is the route just not included in the Mountain Project? Aug 2, 2018
CTdave
Victor, Id.
CTdave   Victor, Id.
they were wrong Aug 12, 2018