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Routes in Grand Teton

Bean's Shining Wall of Storms T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beyer East Face I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Ice Couloir T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI3-4
Collins-Coombs T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Collins-Hume T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crystal Right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0
Direct Petzoldt Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
East Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Emerson Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ford - Stettner Couloir (Ski Descent) WI2-3 Mod. Snow
Gold Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Pillar, Direct North Face T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Traverse, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jackson-Rickert Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Lower Exum Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face Highlight Tour T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Face Standard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Side Lowlight Tour (path of least resistance) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Owen Spalding T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Perception Traverse T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Pownall-Gilkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Psudo Emerson Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4-
Underhill Ridge Original/Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upper Exum Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
West Face of the Exum Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wittich Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: John Steiger & John Fowler, Sept 3, 2006
Page Views: 3,137 total, 25/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jul 21, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

This route takes a line between the Keith-Eddy East Face and the Beyer East Face II, and shares the same approach as described by the Ortenburger and Jackson guidebook. About 10m left of the double cracks marking the start of Beyer II is a right-facing dihedral choked with large blocks. Third class to a good belay ledge on one of the blocks in the dihedral.

(1) The first pitch is intricate. From the ledge, step down and right to a weakness that turns into an easy shallow corner after several moves. A few meters up the corner step out right to an incipient crack that is used to gain an obvious flake further to the right. The flake is just below the long, black horizontal break/roof system stretching from the base of the Eddy-Keith dihedral across the face to the initial Beyer II dihedral. Make a few moves right along the top of the flake and turn the bulge above the horizontal break to a small left-facing dihedral. Work right and climb up another small corner to a small roof, which is skirted on the left into a shallow left-facing corner. Continue up the corner until possible to traverse right and up into another shallow left-facing corner. Climb this corner and weakness above for ~12m to a small but secure belay alcove. (55m).

(2) Ascend an obvious finger crack above and left of the belay to its end, then step left (past an obvious protruding rock) to another crack that ends on a ledge. Make a few moves left, surmount a bulge, then continue straight up easy ground to a belay on broken ledges. (60m).

(3) Climb straight up the slab above, aiming for the left end of a large rectangular roof on top of the slab. Belay from a sloping ledge next to the roof. (65m).

(4) Ascend the easy left-facing dihedral above, which changes to a steeper right-facing corner. Climb the hand crack in the corner to its end on top of a large flake, then traverse right and up for about 5m to an intermittent crack system. Belay 15m higher at a small stance. (52m).

(5) Continue up the crack system until it arches right and ends under short headwall. Step right and climb the headwall to easy climbing ending on top of the initial Underhill Buttress. (35m). (6) Join the Underhill Ridge or its variations to the summit. (~300m).

Location

The Ortenburger and Jackson guidebook provides direction to get there and get off. Beware of the photodiagram on plate 43; Beyer II appears misdrawn.

Protection

One set of brass nuts and wired stoppers; double cams from 3/8 to 3 inch (one 3 1/2" cam may be helpful); many slings; 60m rope. No bolts or other fixed gear.

Photos

Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
Oh. Forgive me for not recognizing a "direct" line on a rectangular buttress that doesn't lead to a summit! That's like calling The Snaz the Cathedral Rock Direct or something... just kiddin with ya. The E. Face area is awesome, lots of potential for new stuff and harder variations to existing routes. Good rock, great cracks.... nice work. Aug 18, 2007
Allen Sanderson   Oootah
Cause it goes directly up the face. HA HA. Here is a picture of the face.

mountainproject.com/v/wyomi…

It is just to the right of the thin set of black streaks that are to the right of Keith Eddy and lead to down to the rather small snow patch. Aug 17, 2007
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
Just curious, but what makes this the "Direct" route on the face? Do you have any photos of the entire route? Aug 13, 2007