Avg: 3.6 from 20 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Jim Beyer 1979|
|Page Views:||14,800 total · 80/month|
|Shared By:||david goldstein on Jul 21, 2006|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson|
Note: the following pitch break out is slightly different than Ortenburger's. Also note that the grading scale O used for this route seemed considerably softer than the one he used for cragging routes such as Caveat Emptor.
P1: Up the short RF corner to a small roof/alcove (5.8) then step left onto a ledge/slab. Angle L across the slab for ~20' to some vertical cracks that lead to an RF corner. Up these easy cracks to corner (~5.8) then continue up easier cracks to a small ledge just below the point where the crack widens to 3-4". 5.8 ~140'.
P2: Up the crack which is hands and fists for its first 30' (5.8) and then widens to OW. 20' of OW (~5.7) leads to easier climbing and a ledge. Veer right on easy ground and up 20' to another, larger ledge system. Belay at some large blocks about 20' below a 10' high flake. (Note this links Ortenburger P2 & 3. Also the O topo is confusing, indicating that at the end of the pitch, after the crack, you go R as described here AND you go L to face climbing above the flakes; the flake variation puts you on climbing that is harder than anything else on the route with ledge fall potential.) O indicates you might want "some 4-inch pieces" for this pitch. One #4 is plenty (save it for the upper section) and solid wide crack climbers won't even need this -- there are some side cracks and pods were small pro can be placed. 5.8 ~120'.
P3: Up the steep face, past the flake (5.7) to a sloping ledge which is traversed L for about 40' (5.5, no pro) until below a 100' tall open book capped with a roof. Establish a belay here, trying not to stomp on the floral hummocks.
P4: Up cracks right of the corner (5.7) until they merge with the corner. Up corner easily until a small, pegmatitey roof/bulge is encountered and passed on the R (5.9-). Continue up to the large roof, step R to a ledge and belay. 5.9-, 120'.
P5: Up cracks for about 20', then traverse L on a sloping ramp until a vertical crack on black rock. 5.5, ~100'.
P6: Up this crack for about 30' where it joins the Underhill ridge. Follow a corner crack past a fixed pin (classic 5.6) then continue on easy ground to the summit of the Underhill ridge. 5.6 200'.
At this point (~12,900') we unroped, crossed the 50'wide, snow covered saddle, and zig-zagged up third and fourth class terrain to the summit, avoiding snow fields. We encountered a short ~5.5 step near the bottom and a short ~5.4 chimney near the top.
We took the following rack but did not place many of the pieces:
2 & 3 RP; 2 ea 1-4 Rock; 5-8 Rock; green, yellow and red Alien; .3 - #4 Camalot with 2 ea #1 & #2; 1.5 & 2 Friend; the four smallest Tricams.
If I did the route again, I would take 1 each of: 1-8 Rock; green, yellow and red Alien; .5 - #3 Camalot; four smallest Tricams. However, many people will feel more comfortable in the OW with a 4" piece.