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Routes in Grand Teton

Bean's Shining Wall of Storms T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beyer East Face I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Ice Couloir T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI3-4
Collins-Coombs T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Collins-Hume T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crystal Right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0
Direct Petzoldt Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
East Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Emerson Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ford - Stettner Couloir (Ski Descent) WI2-3 Mod. Snow
Gold Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Pillar, Direct North Face T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grand Traverse, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jackson-Rickert Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Lower Exum Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face Highlight Tour T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Face Standard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Side Lowlight Tour (path of least resistance) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Owen Spalding T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Perception Traverse T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Pownall-Gilkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Psudo Emerson Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4-
Underhill Ridge Original/Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upper Exum Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
West Face of the Exum Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wittich Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Ice, Snow, Alpine, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 13,196 total, 101/month
Shared By: jyount on Feb 7, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

This is the classic Ski Mountaineering line connecting the Ford Couloir, Chevy Couloir, Stettner Couloir, and Tepee Glacier lines for an a ski decent of the Grand Teton. We ascended the same line, but I have heard of people climbing the Owen Spalding with skis when deep snow might make the trail breaking difficult. Our trip was in January of a low snow year with 4 rappels through the Chevy and Stettner Couliors. In big years the ski descent can be made with 1-2 rappels and a lot more skiing in the Stettner.

Ascend the Tepee Glacier up a steep snow field to a small col. Cross a short exposed slope to another small col that separates the Tepee from the Stettner Couloir. A short easy decent brings you into the Stettner and the technical climbing begins here. The climbing starts with a narrow 8' ice and rock step to an easy snow slope. A 10' ice bulge and some snow brings you up to a fixed anchor on the East side of the Coulior. From here you can see the water ice of the Chevy Coulior flowing on the left. We left the Stettner and did a short pitch into the Chevy up to a fixed anchor on the right. From here climb the fun and easy WI of the Chevy to another fixed anchor on the right. Your in the Ford Coulior now, drink some water, stash the heavy climbing stuff, and start boot packing. At the top of the Ford Couloir the summit is visible a 100 meters to the WNW.

Click in and make some turns!
Rap the Chevy and Stettner (4 double rope raps for us)

Location

Negotiate the maze of trails at the Taggart Lake parking lot and ski NW to Bradley lake (~2 miles). From the lake skin up into Garnet Canyon. The skin track usually stays on the S. side of the Canyon meeting up with the summer trail at the Platforms. Boogie up to the meadows and skin or boot the head wall to the N and continue moving N/NW to the Tepee glacier past the Jackson Hole Mountain Guides high camp.

Protection

1-2 ice screws and a few stoppers. I would recommend ice tools instead of a mountaineering axe. In a big snow year the fixed gear we used to rap might be buried in snow, a couple of higher anchors were visible but take this into account.

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